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Should a Graduate Student Save for Retirement in a Roth IRA?

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For graduate students with sufficient stipends, investing during graduate school is a fantastic financial goal. Counterintuitively, the long-term goal of funding retirement should be the first or one of the first investing goals any individual has. An Individual Retirement Arrangement (IRA) may be an appropriate vehicle in which to invest during graduate school, when the vast majority of graduate students do not have access to a retirement account at their universities such as a 403(b) or 457. But not all graduate students are eligible to contribute to an IRA, and an IRA is only the best choice for certain investing goals. If a graduate student opens an IRA, she must choose either a Roth or a traditional version.

grad student Roth IRA

A version of this article originally appeared on GradHacker.

What is an IRA?

An IRA protects your investments from being taxed while they are growing. An IRA is not synonymous with certain investments, but rather is an envelope around whatever investments you have chosen. As the name implies, the IRA is intended to be used for retirement savings, and by protecting your investments from taxes over the decades, your investments will grow at their fastest possible rate. Due to the power of compound interest, not having to pay tax on the growth of your investments can make a significant positive impact on their value. Therefore, it is a very good idea to use tax-advantaged retirement accounts to the greatest extent of your ability.

In 2018, the contribution limit for people under the age of 50 is $5,500 per year or your amount of taxable compensation, whichever is lower. You can make contributions to your 2018 IRA until April 15, 2019.

Many brokerage firms require a certain minimum account size that may be too high for a grad student just starting out with saving. If that is the case for your preferred brokerage firm, you can save into a savings account or IRA at another brokerage firm (some waive account size minimums if you set up a monthly auto-transfer) and transfer the money when you reach the minimum.

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Who can contribute to an IRA?

Only taxable compensation (previously known as earned income) can be contributed to an IRA. A graduate student’s stipend is taxable compensation if it is reported on a W-2 at tax time. If a grad student has only fellowship or training grant income during a calendar year (not reported on a W-2) and no outside income, he will not be able to contribute to an IRA for that year. Senators Elizabeth Warren and Mike Lee proposed the Graduate Student Saving Act of 2016, which would include fellowship stipends as taxable compensation for the purposes of IRA contributions, but it was not enacted.

If you are married to a person with taxable compensation, you can contribute to a spousal IRA, again subject to the limit of $5,500 or the amount of taxable compensation. There are income limits as well for IRAs, but they are much higher than grad student stipend levels.

If your stipend is not taxable compensation, you can still save for retirement, though it may not be inside an IRA.

Is a Roth or a traditional IRA better for a graduate student?

There are two versions of IRAs available: Roth and traditional. The first-pass difference between the two types of accounts is when you will pay income tax on the money inside it. While the money in your IRA grows tax-free, you do have to pay income tax either upon the contribution (Roth IRA) or withdrawal (traditional IRA).

Initially, when people decide between the Roth and traditional IRA, they compare the marginal tax rates the taxpayer will be in upon contribution vs. withdrawal. The idea is to opt to pay the tax when they are in the lower marginal tax bracket. You know your marginal tax bracket currently; for graduate students without outside income, it is usually the 15% tax bracket or lower. You do not know what your marginal tax bracket will be during your retirement, as both your income and the tax brackets themselves will change in the intervening decades. However, this educated guess applies to the majority of graduate students: You are currently in a relatively low tax bracket because you are in training and building your career. Later in your life, you expect to have a much higher income and be in a much higher tax bracket. If that assumption holds, the Roth IRA is the more appropriate choice. Virtually every graduate student I’ve spoken with about this has chosen to contribute to a Roth IRA during graduate school.

The Roth IRA has some additional flexibility that the traditional IRA does not that may be attractive for graduate students.

Details on Emily's Roth IRA

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What are the pros and cons of using a Roth IRA?

As graduate students usually lack access to other tax-advantaged retirement account options, the best practice is to only contribute money to a Roth IRA that you intend to invest for retirement. This is in line with the government’s purpose in creating IRAs. The main con of using any tax-advantaged retirement account is that accessing the funds earlier may trigger an income tax payment and a 10% penalty. However, the Roth IRA is unusually flexible.

As you have already paid income tax on the contributions to your Roth IRA, you can remove them at any time without additional tax or penalty. Five years after opening a Roth IRA, a first-time home buyer can remove up to $10,000 without incurring a penalty.

Because of the Roth IRA’s flexibility, some people use it “off-label” as a general savings vehicle. Others may make contributions even if they are not 100% sure they will preserve the money for retirement. Just be sure to match your investment strategy with your intended use for the money; the type of investments you choose for long-term money should be different than those for mid- or short-term money.

Of course, saving for retirement is not an appropriate goal for every graduate student. If you are currently taking on debt (student loans, personal loans, credit cards), your first priority should be to minimize that debt acquisition or even start to repay it. If you can keep your head above water with your stipend but don’t have any kind of cash savings for emergencies or short-term expenses, saving those funds should be your goal, not investing (yet). Even graduate students whose stipends allow for saving may not want to start investing for the long term if they have other financial priorities and their values don’t align with early wealth-building.

If you are a graduate student with a livable stipend who values financial security or independence, using a Roth IRA for your retirement savings is a wonderful choice. If you don’t have taxable compensation, you can still save for retirement in another vehicle. If you aren’t sure what financial goal you are saving for, using a Roth IRA is an option but saving in a taxable account is almost as beneficial and prevents the different purposes from becoming confused.

Did you save for retirement during graduate school? If so, did you use a Roth IRA?

Our $100,000+ Net Worth Increase During Graduate School

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I share my personal money story, which is how my husband and I increased our net worth by over $100,000 while we were in graduate school. We carefully budgeted our two PhD student stipends to consistently add money to our investments and pay for both our regular monthly expenses and irregular expenses such as travel. Over our seven years as graduate students, we accumulated approximately $75,000 in retirement savings, $20,000 in cash, and enough money to pay off my student loans plus an additional $5,000. I detail the five strategies we used that made the largest positive impact on our cash flow, which enabled us to increase our savings percentage over time.

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100k during PhD

Timestamped Show Notes

0:00 Introduction and Outline

1:45 Background Information and Income

When we graduated from Harvey Mudd College, I had $17k in student loan debt and no savings, and Kyle had zero student loan debt and approximately $5,000 in savings. Kyle went straight into a PhD program at Duke University in Computational Biology and Bioinformatics. I spent one year in the National Institutes of Health’s postbac program before starting a PhD program at Duke University in Biomedical Engineering.

Our $100k+ increase in combined net worth occurred between 2007 and 2014 when we earned two graduate student stipends. My NIH stipend was $24k/year, and my Duke stipend went from $24k/year when I started to $28k/year when I finished. Kyle’s Duke stipend went from $25k/year when he started to $29k/year when he finished.

In the first three years, Kyle and I were dating and kept separate finances. We got married in 2010, so for the last four years of the seven-year period we kept joint finances.

4:00 How We Increased Our Net Worth

  1. Saving and investing consistently throughout the whole period.
  2. Budgeting intensively to keep a lid on expenses and funnel more money into savings.
  3. Investment growth due to the bull stock market that started in 2009.

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4:51 High-Level Strategies to Increase Net Worth

  1. Our programs paid us above the local living wage, and Durham, NC is also a medium cost-of-living city.
  2. We identified our values, which included financial security and family/community. This meant that saving, including for retirement, was a top priority, as well as travel to visit family and friends. We reduced our spending on everyday expenses so that we could funnel more money to our top priorities.
  3. We employed percentage-based budgeting. Right off the top, we paid our taxes, tithed (10% of gross income to our church), and saved for retirement and near-term expenses.
  4. Any extra income we received, such as gifts, side income, and credit card rewards, went toward our financial goals instead of general spending.

7:38 Net Worth Breakdown

8:07 IRAs ($0 to $75k)

I started saving 10% of my gross income into my Roth IRA as soon as I started receiving a stipend and maintained that savings rate for 3 years. Kyle didn’t intentionally start saving right away, but allowed money to build up in his checking account. He opened and maxed out a Roth IRA in 2009, and maxed out a Roth IRA every year following.

Further Reading: My Biggest Financial Mistake and Why I’m Glad I Made It

Once we got married, we made a game of trying to max out two Roth IRAs each year. We never quite achieved our goal, but we did increase our savings rate from 10 to 17%.

What exactly we were invested in doesn’t matter as much as our savings rate, though I am happy to share my investment choice.

Details on Emily's Roth IRA

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12:11 Cash Savings ($5k to $20k)

Initially, I didn’t focus on cash savings. In 2007, I paid off a $1k unsubsidized student loan. When I started grad school, I bought a car with a $3,500 car loan. Later that fall, my parents gave me $10,000, which I used as a general savings account/emergency fund. I paid off my car loan, then repaid my “car payment” to myself to rebuild my savings. Kyle naturally lived below his means, and he continued to accumulate savings in his checking account.

The year we got married, 2010, was a financial reset point. From our cash savings, we paid approximately $10k in wedding expenses. When we joined finances, we assessed our combined balance sheet.

We each had money in our IRAs, and we also had $17k in cash. We set $16k aside to pay off my student loan balance and set up a $1k emergency fund. However, that left us with no savings for near-term expenses, just whatever we could cash flow.

We built up $20k in savings between 2010 and 2014 using targeted savings accounts. We were inspired to start using targeted savings accounts by several large irregular expenses that hit right around the same time and were difficult to cash flow: an expensive wedding season, two university parking permits, and season tickets to the Duke men’s basketball games and Broadway theater series.

Further Reading:

We decided to start preparing in advance for anticipated expenses over the next year. We started out with savings accounts for Cars, Entertainment, Travel. We set up budget for each account by anticipating when we would need or want to spend money and calculating a savings rate. Targeted savings accounts turn large, irregular expenses into small, fixed expenses that are easy to write into a budget.

By 2014, we had more savings accounts: Travel, Cars, Entertainment, Appearance, Electronics, Medical, Charitable Giving, CSA, Taxes, and Camera in addition to our checking and emergency fund accounts. We used Ally Bank, which did not charge us any fees or require minimum balances, etc.

We set up automatic savings rates into the targeted savings accounts, then manually pulled money back for each expense when it occurred.

We built up the savings in these accounts because we over-estimated what we would need in various areas, which caused us to over-save.

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20:43 Student Loan Payoff Money ($0k to $16k in cash savings, then $16k to $21k in investments)

By 2010, we had the money to pay off $16k in student loans. Instead of paying it off, we chose to conservatively invest they money to earn a small return. It was difficult to choose how to invest the mid-term money, and we wanted to be conservative so as not to lose it.

We decided to conduct an experiment on ourselves to find out what kind of investors we were. In 2011, we put a large fraction of the money in a CD, a small fraction in aggressive stock mutual funds, and a large fraction in conservative mutual funds (stocks and bonds).

We learned that we are committed to passive investing.

Further reading:

23:57 Our Best (Pain-Free) Money-Saving Moves

I started blogging at Evolving Personal Finance in 2011; learned a ton from my fellow personal finance bloggers and developed my own ideas about how I should manage my money. I published a post near the end of grad school on the best things we did to increase our available cash flow for saving and investing. This list largely explains how we increased our retirement savings rate from 10% to 17% savings and built up $20k in cash savings.

25:24 1. Moved to decrease rent twice (savings $2,340/year).

Initially, we lived in a great apartment, but one year the rent jumped up so we moved to a townhouse, decreasing our rent by $110/mo (what it would have increased to over the new rent). The next year, we moved again and decreased our rent by an additional $25/mo (previous year’s rent to new rent).

Through those two moves, we maintained our home size (1,200 sq. ft., 2 BR, 2+ BA). With the latter two townhouses, we actually reduced our commute to Duke, so the saving was even deeper than just the rent decrease. We did give up some amenities we had through the apartment complex, but that was acceptable.

Further Reading:

27:48 2. Cancelled cable TV (Savings: $1,208.16/year)

We cancelled our cable TV in favor of paying for internet only. We bought an antenna so we could still watch broadcast TV.

Further reading: How to Cancel Cable When You’re Addicted to a Show

28:47 3. Signed up for rewards credit cards (Income: $991.18/year)

We signed up for cash back rewards credit cards, both for good ongoing rewards and good sign-up bonuses. We looked for minimum spends that we could actually meet and timed application so that we could put our large irregular expenses on the new cards to help meet the minimum spend.

Further reading: Perfect Use of a Credit Card

30:00 4. Became a One-Car Family (Savings: $972.03/year)

After we got married, we started commuting to Duke together. Around that time, my car needed some expensive repairs, so we stopped using it. Our reduced expenses came from lower car insurance, dropping one parking permit, less gas used, half as much maintenance required, and less need to keep money on hand for repairs. We had to work out our schedules to be able to share the car and ended up spending a lot more time together, which was wonderful!

Further Reading: The Financial Implications of Dropping One Car

32:19 5. Switched to an MVNO (Savings: $544.34/year)

I started using Republic Wireless, paying approximately $25/mo for service. (Kyle has since switched to Google’s Project Fi.)

The best thing about these pain-free money-saving moves is that they don’t require any ongoing effort/willpower. Typically, we just had to carry out one-time decisions.

34:41 How Our Accomplishment Led into PF for PhDs

I had been blogging about personal finance for 3.5 years by the time finished grad school, and I also volunteered with Personal Finance @ Duke. After I defended, I decided to give my own seminar on personal finance for graduate students. I had the best time making and delivering the seminar and answering questions from my peers. I asked myself, how can I teach my peers about personal finance as my job?

The initial phase of my business was as public speaker; I gave seminars at universities all over the country. That first seminar I created is now titled “The Graduate Student and Postdoc’s Guide to Personal Finance,” and I have others on taxes, investing, budgeting, and starting grad school on the right financial foot. If you’d like to (figure out how to) bring me to your university for a seminar or workshop, please email me at emily at PFforPhDs.com.

In addition to speaking, I’ve added other aspects of my business, ebooks and online courses. I have two new initiatives launching later this year, an investing webinar series and a membership community.

38:31 Conclusion

How to Embrace the Frugal Life

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Frugality is an unavoidable companion throughout PhD training due to our limited incomes. For those of us who are not naturally frugal (I confess!), it might be quite an unpleasant companion initially, one you constantly struggle with and attempt to escape. This post details six strategies to help us change our attitude toward frugality and instead welcome and embrace it. Use these strategies to eliminate pain and discomfort from your practice of frugality.

embrace frugal life

A version of this article originally appeared on GradHacker.

1) Find Your Bigger “Why.”

Sacrifice, by definition, is not fun. The key to embracing frugality rather than tolerating it is in identifying your motivation for practicing it. What life values is your frugality helping you fulfill? What are you able to do with the money that you free up through practicing frugality?

Personally, I wanted to handle my money responsibly. Being responsible is very important to me (eldest child much?), and when I started grad school that translated into living within my means, being financially independent from my parents, and starting to save for retirement. I learned to practice frugality in each of my budget categories, and it was satisfying because I believed that in doing so I was becoming more responsible. Money that I no longer spend on my everyday living expenses could be put into savings.

A couple years into grad school, I realized that traveling to see family and friends had also become very important to me. Finding a new way to be frugal in my monthly budget meant that more money was freed up to be added to my travel savings account. Making a sacrifice like canceling cable or ceasing eating out for convenience was made easier because I knew that the money would directly be put toward travel.

2) Widen Your Exposure to Frugal Strategies.

Not every frugal strategy you come across is going to work for your life; you can’t expect to happen upon a new frugal idea once every few months and implement 100 percent of them to fantastic success in your budget. Instead, you should expose yourself to lots of suggestions, knowing that you might only pick up on and start practicing a small fraction of them. In fact, you might even reject a frugal tip the first time you hear it, but cycle back around to trying it out a few months or years later when something in your circumstances or disposition has changed.

3) Keep a Lid on Your Large, Fixed Expenses.

When students start practicing frugality, they usually first turn to areas such as their food spending (a variable expense). However, the most effective and least onerous area of your budget in which to practice frugality is your large, fixed expenses. When you make a frugal choice in your large, fixed expenses, you lock in a rate that works well for your overall budget, meaning that there is less need to frugalize your remaining variable expenses, which require more willpower.

Your large, fixed expenses will almost certainly include your rent/mortgage and car payment (if you have one), but might also include your insurance premiums, certain utilities, childcare, etc. Finding and moving to an inexpensive home or shopping for and buying an inexpensive car is not easy, but it is a one-time decision that will pay off every single month in perpetuity.

4) Focus on Habit Creation in One Area at a Time.

The next best thing after reducing a fixed expense is to create a habit that reduces a variable expense. It’s very taxing to continually have to force yourself to practice frugality in a certain area, but once the practice becomes a habit, you do it effortlessly. So when you try out a new frugal tip, give it some time – a few weeks, perhaps – before deciding whether you’ll stick with it or not. The practice should become easier and easier as the habit becomes ingrained. Over time, you’ll also figure out how to best fit the frugal tip into your life; this might not be obvious the first time or two you try it, so don’t give up too quickly.

It’s not a great idea to try to frugalize every area of your spending simultaneously. It will take a lot of effort to remember all the new frugal strategies you have in play, and it will be exhausting and possibly time-consuming to take on so much at once. Instead, focus on creating one new frugal habit at a time before moving on to the next one.

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5) Experiment.

I think we’re sometimes reluctant to try a new frugal strategy because we can’t imagine practicing it indefinitely. But you don’t have to make a binding commitment to every frugal tip you try out.

I like to think of trying out a new frugal tip as a 30-day experiment. If you have been tracking your spending, you know how much you spent in the relevant budget category before implementing the tip (your control). Then, commit to practicing the strategy for just 30 days, noting how much less money you spend and how onerous (or not) you found the strategy. At the end of the month, evaluate whether the cost savings were worth the effort expended to decide whether to continue with the strategy.

6) Talk Openly with Your Peers about Frugality.

I recommend that you talk with your peers about money, specifically about your frugal aspirations.

First, this reveals to your peers that you are money-conscious and not likely to be a big spender. Frankly, this will probably come as a relief to most of your peers who are on just as tight a budget as you are. It helps to set the expectation in your social circle that entertainment and socializing will be accomplished without a large price tag.

Second, your classmates are going to be your best source of frugal tips, even better than the frugal wizards you can find online. This is because they have intimate knowledge of your university, your city, and your salary range. The first time I facilitated my workshop, Hack Your Budget, I was pleasantly surprised at the large number of frugal tips the participants shared with one another that were specific to their university and city – down to at what time and in what building a not-overtly-advertised pop-up discounted produce market operated. There was no way that an outsider like me could have generated that volume of frugal suggestions that were perfectly suited for that audience; it had to be crowd-sourced from a group of graduate students.

The core purpose of frugality is to minimize your monetary expenditures in areas that matter less to you so that you can redirect your money toward areas that matter more. Therefore, the areas of your spending that you try to frugalize (and how you use your money instead) is unique to you. It takes time and effort to develop that frugal fingerprint, but the end result should not feel difficult or uncomfortable.

Start Investing During Graduate School

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During graduate school, you’re heavily investing in yourself and your career. You’re sacrificing significant income potential to receive super-advanced training in your field. You’re probably anticipating a large income jump upon exiting grad school. Why should you even try to make your stipend income work for you? Is it possible or feasible to start investing while you’re so consumed by graduate school?

start investing

A version of this article originally appeared on GradHacker.

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The Power of Compound Interest

Einstein declared that compound interest is the most powerful force in the universe. Just kidding – that’s an oft-misattributed quote. But compound interest is amazingly powerful: When you invest money and achieve a rate of return consistently over time, your money experiences exponential growth. The growth in your account balance itself is what grows with time.

Let’s look at a toy example of the power of compound interest (in reality, you would never receive a high rate of return on a consistent basis, but rather it would fluctuate):

You make a one-time investment of $5,500 (no ongoing contribution). Below is a table of your account balance at different points in time, given different rates of return.

compound_interest_table

Now imagine how your earnings would layer and multiply as you consistently invest year after year throughout your career! Given enough time and a reasonable average rate of return, even a modest amount of yearly savings can turn into millions of dollars.

Compound interest works for you in the case of investing (if irregularly), but it works against you in the cases of inflation. The long-term average rate of inflation in the US is a little above 3%. That means that you must invest your money to get a rate of return of at least 3-4% to just maintain its purchasing power!

The principle behind the power of compound interest teaches us that the more time given to the process the better it works for you. Graduate school is a wonderful time to start investing for the long term, if you haven’t already. You won’t be able to save much money, at least not in comparison with how much you might after graduating, but the extra few years of compounding will work their magic and over the decades that small amount of money will grow into a staggering sum.

Passive Investing Is Maximally Time-Efficient

Many graduate students are intimidated by the prospect of investing. They suffer from analysis paralysis at several different steps and end up doing nothing, even if they have the capital available. My goal is to dispel the misconception that investing has to be difficult or time-consuming. Certainly if you want to make a hobby of investing you can spend a considerable amount of time on it, but that’s absolutely not required. The average graduate student can invest quite successfully while spending only a few hours to set up the investment and a few minutes over the course of a year checking up on it.

The approach to investing that is most successful and time-efficient is called passive investing. When you passively invest, you strive to get the same returns in your personal account as some sector(s) of the market. You are not looking to beat the market, but rather match it. This is in contrast to active investing, which involves picking individual investments and timing the buying and selling to try to beat the market average. When these two approaches have been compared head to head, the passive investing strategy beats out the active strategy 80% of the time. Plus, it’s simpler, easier, and cheaper.

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To passively invest, you simply choose to put your money into index funds. Index funds replicate a market sector. For instance, the S&P 500 index fund replicates large-capitalization stocks by holding the largest 500 companies traded on the US stock exchanges. Depending on your investing goals, you could buy an index fund that represents the entire US stock market or bond market – or their international counterparts – or a mix of several index funds. Then, once you have invested, you stay invested for the long term – no jumping in and out. (You can often find an Exchange Traded Fund version of your preferred index fund, which is usually offered at an even lower cost.)

Because the passive investing strategy is a buy and hold strategy, the significant time investment is up front to research and choose your index fund(s). This can be done in as little as a few minutes or as much as tens of hours, depending on how thoroughly you want to understand the investment. Once you have made your choice, you can just glance at the account balance a few times per year to make sure it’s in line with your expectations (given how the market is behaving).

How to Get Started Investing

If you are investing for retirement, your first decision is whether you can or should use a tax-advantaged retirement account, such as an individual retirement arrangement (IRA). (You must have taxable compensation to contribute to an IRA.) It’s very rare, though not totally unheard of, for graduate students to have access to a workplace-based retirement account, such as a 403(b). If you are opening an IRA, you will have to choose between a Roth and a traditional version.

Your next decision is where to open your investment account (IRA or taxable). Most DIY investors would do well to choose a brokerage firm. Vanguard, Fidelity, and Charles Schwab are all excellent, though not the only, options for low-cost index funds. With a brokerage firm, you will have a wide selection of investment options available to you (unlike at most banks). You can open and fund such an account completely online.

The next step is actually choosing your index funds, which is the one where you might spend the most time. Brokerage firms often offer similar index funds to one another, as they are all trying to replicate the same market sectors, though there may be subtle differences in the holdings or the cost. These brokerage firms usually offer tools and quizzes to help you identify the right investment for your time frame and risk tolerance.

If you don’t know where to start your research, check out target date retirement funds. They assume a risk tolerance for you based on your projected retirement year (e.g., 2055), and then invest in a small number of index funds to create an appropriate asset allocation. This type of fund handles all the necessary rebalancing among the index funds, so it is a totally hands-off investing strategy. For this reason, it is great for a graduate student who wants a set-it-and-forget-it investment strategy.

The biggest barrier to investing for a graduate student should be freeing up the money to put toward it rather than intimidation or analysis paralysis. Passive investing is totally compatible with the existing demands on a graduate student’s time and energy. For ideas on how to reduce your expenses and increase your income so that you have more money available for investing, see:

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If you have already started investing, are you using a passive strategy? Have you suffered from analysis paralysis with respect to investing? How are you harnessing the power of compound interest?

A Graduate Student’s Balanced Money Formula

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Grad students frequently wonder how much they should spend on various expenses or even how much they should be saving. The Balanced Money Formula (BMF) answers this question for the average American, but how applicable is it to a grad student’s budget?

Further reading: The Power of Percentage-Based Budgeting for a Career-Building PhD

grad student balanced money formula

A version of this post originally appeared on GradHacker.

What Is the Balanced Money Formula?

The BMF, as defined in All Your Worth: The Ultimate Lifetime Money Plan* by Elizabeth Warren and Amelia Warren Tyagi, is a high-level allocation of your net (after tax) pay to three areas: needs, wants, and savings. The idea is that if you conform to this ratio throughout your life, you will have a great chance of feeling satisfied with your current spending while saving enough for your future. The trap that many people fall into is letting the needs component of their spending take up too much of their income, which crowds out saving and inhibits spending your money in areas that bring you a lot of comfort and satisfaction (your wants).

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The magic ratio of the BMF is 50% to needs, 30% to wants, and 20% to savings. The definitions of these three categories are a little different than what you might intuitively think. Needs are defined as all expenses that must be paid on a regular basis, such as rent/mortgage, minimum debt payments, insurance, contracts, groceries, transportation, and utilities. Wants are defined as discretionary purchases such as restaurant eating, entertainment, shopping (beyond basics), and travel. Savings is broken up into a few stages and categories. When you have debt other than for your mortgage, savings means accelerated debt repayment (the minimum payments are in the needs category). Once you are out of all debt except your mortgage, the 20% to savings becomes 10% for retirement, 5% for extra mortgage payments, and 5% for your “dream” goal.

Keep in mind that the BMF was not designed for a Millennial audience. I’m particularly concerned about the advice to save only 10% of net income for retirement (and only after you’re out of non-mortgage debt). Millennials will likely only have one-and-a-half legs of the older generations’ three-legged stool available to them – personal retirements savings and a reduced Social Security benefit (no pensions). That personal retirement savings leg is going to be doing most of the heavy lifting, and 10% of net after you’re debt-free probably isn’t going to cut it.

What I think is valuable about the BMF is the emphasis that there is a place for each of needs, wants, and savings throughout your life, the stern warning against letting the needs category inflate, and the suggested 5:3 ratio between spending on needs and wants.

Can and Should Every Graduate Student’s Financial Management Conform to the BMF?

Absolutely not.

1. The BMF may be right for a lot of people, but ultimately it is just an opinion. You can create your own BMF with a different ideal ratio among needs, wants, and savings that works best for your life. The point is to find a ratio that keeps you on track to accomplish your financial goals without feeling too restricted.

2. Even if you do agree with the BMF, All Your Worth acknowledges that an individual might not stick to the BMF during special life circumstances. Living on a low stipend for a limited period of time while you’re receiving training can qualify as special life circumstances if you need it to. You can find another ratio to keep during grad school and set up your post-grad life to fit the BMF.

Given these caveats, the BMF is still a good starting point for planning how to allocate your stipend pay.

How Can a Graduate Student Create a Balanced Money Formula for Herself?

First, categorize your spending according to the BMF’s needs/wants/savings definition and see how it compares to the suggested 50:30:20 ratio. When I did this during grad school, I was pleasantly surprised that my financial allocation aligned within 1% of the BMF (though my full 20% to savings was going into retirement savings). This told me that my gut feeling that my spending and saving was in balance and sustainable was probably correct.

The danger for graduate students is the same as for the population at large: the needs category ballooning and edging out what makes your life stable (savings) and fun (wants). Even for graduate students, the percentage of your post-tax income that is spent on needs rising above 50% should give you pause and compel you to consider ways to reduce your spending. You may not get it under 50%, but the better you do with minimizing that category the more ‘in balance’ you will probably feel.

In some high cost-of-living areas, close to 50% of a graduate student’s stipend might be spent on rent alone and of course in those cases the BMF cannot be achieved. But if you are over 50%, you should be doing as much as you reasonably can to minimize that category of expenses overall. For example, perhaps your rent is high, but you live with a roommate to get it as low as possible, and the location allows you to live car-free, which minimizes your overall needs spending. Consider capping the percentage of your pay that you are willing to spend on needs at your absolutely maximum (e.g., 70%) to trigger yourself to reduce one of your large fixed expenses, even if it requires moving, should your needs ever rise to that level.

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Some graduate students with more generous stipends and/or a manageable cost of living may spend significantly less than 50% of their stipends on needs. In the case, the best course of action is not to intentionally spend more on needs (though you have the leeway if you would like to), but rather to increase the amount you save and/or spend on wants.

If you have asked yourself if you are spending a reasonable amount of money on your wants and needs and saving enough, the BMF is a great formula to use as a starting point for your budget. However, over time you will likely want to adapt how you allocate your money to best match your values and goals.

Savings in Graduate School

If you want and are able to follow the BMF, the 20% of your money that is saved during graduate school could go toward building an emergency fund, investing for the future, and/or paying down debt. You should start with at least a baby emergency fund of $1,000, if not a few months of expenses. According to All Your Worth, your next step should be to pay off all non-mortgage debt, but if (some of) your debt is at a low interest rate and doesn’t bother you, investing for retirement is a great choice as well. Let both the math of the situation (interest rates on debt vs. expected rates of return on investments) as well as your personal disposition toward the options lead you to the correct choice in your life.

While I am a proponent of adding money each month to targeted savings accounts to help you pay for irregular expenses, I think this type of saving should come from your needs or wants categories. Saving with respect to the BMF should be only for mid- or long-term goals, whereas saving for irregular expenses is a short-term goal.

It is enormously worthwhile to start building the habit of saving during graduate school, even if you can’t reach the 20% target from the BMF. Applying compound interest in the form of investing or debt repayment to even a small percentage of your pay is amazingly powerful.

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For Stipends that Are Just Too Low

Not having room for needs, wants, and savings to some degree in your grad student budget is an indicator that your pay is too low or your spending is askew. If you are earning too little from your role as a graduate student, your options are to develop a side income or take out student loans. You must carefully weigh the consequences of your choices. Student loans will hold you back from building wealth post-grad school. A side income might benefit you if it furthers your career goals, or it might distract from your degree progress, which should be your top priority.

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What percentages of your net pay do you spend on needs, wants, and savings? Have you ever successfully reduced the amount of money you were spending on needs?

How to Prioritize Financial Goals When You Can’t Do It All

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As graduate students, we can be overwhelmed easily by everything our stipends are ‘supposed to’ accomplish for us. If you read any personal finance material (including mine!), you will see that your income should go toward saving for retirement, paying off your debt, saving an emergency fund, saving for your short-term goals… oh, and feeding, clothing, and housing you, too! It can seem impossible to make any financial progress when faced with all these demands. Instead of trying to do everything at once, prioritize the various financial goals you might set based on both the math behind them and your personal disposition toward saving, investing, and debt.

prioritize financial goals

A version of this post originally appeared on GradHacker.

In my opinion the first two goals you should accomplish with your stipend are obvious, and after that you’ll have leeway to choose among competing valid goals.

Goal 1: Pay for Your Basics

The primary purpose your stipend should serve each month is to pay for the basic expenses in your life, such as housing, utilities, food, and transportation. If that’s all your stipend can manage, it has served its purpose: providing you with enough money that you can fully devote yourself to your studies. Increasing your short- and long-term financial security will have to wait until after graduation.

However, keep in mind that it’s very possible for these basic expenses to inflate from “need” into “want” territory. “Want” aspects of these basic expenses include living alone, housing amenities (access to pool, gym, social spaces), a car/a car that’s worth a significant fraction of your yearly income, eating out, bar tabs, etc. That’s not to say that you shouldn’t spend money on those above-basic aspects of these expenses, but just be aware that you can’t justify that portion of the spending as “needs.” It’s easy for your large, fixed expenses such as housing and transportation to get away from you, so spending your stipend on the “want” aspects of your basics should be weighed against using it for your other possible financial goals (more on that later).

Goal 2: Save an Emergency Fund

Everyone should have an emergency fund, even if it’s small. An emergency fund is cash reserved only for emergencies. It’s basically money that will prevent you from going into debt when something unexpected happens. A full emergency fund is on the order of 3-6 months of expenses, but that shouldn’t necessarily be your first goal. A small emergency fund of $1,000 is a great start when you have other pressing financial goals, such as debt repayment. It’s not prudent to delay repaying high-interest-rate debt to save a larger emergency fund the purpose of which is to prevent you from going into high-interest-rate debt.

Start with a $1,000 emergency fund as your second financial goal, but after that let the math of your other choices and your gut help you decide whether to keep building the emergency fund or move on to another goal.

Accumulating Cash vs. Growing Wealth Mid/Long-Term

Cash savings has great utility. If your expenses are quite uncertain over the next year (such as when you near graduation), it makes sense to save up to be able to pay for the most costly scenario in cash. It’s also a good idea to keep cash on hand for irregular expenses, such as in a system of targeted savings accounts. As just discussed, a larger emergency fund can bring great peace of mind to certain people.

But you should limit your cash savings to the amount that you may well need in the short term (1-2 years plus any mid-term goal expenses like a house down payment or wedding). To increase your net worth in the long term and ultimately become financially independent, you need to invest for the long-term and pay off debt. As soon as you have sufficient cash on hand (by your estimation), you should start investing or paying off debt, but deciding when you have enough cash is largely about your comfort level.

It’s also fine to simultaneously invest/pay down debt and save additional cash, as long as you can accept that your progress toward each goal will be slower. For example, if you decide to save 20 percent of your income, 10 percent can go toward investing/debt repayment and 10 percent can go toward cash savings.

Investing vs. Debt Repayment

The earlier you get compound interest working in your favor, the better. You can accomplish that by investing or paying off debt. Deciding between investing and debt repayment is again a balance of math and personal disposition.

First, do the math. Put numbers on your various possible investing and debt repayment goals. Your debt repayment “rate of return” is the interest rate of the debt in question. The long-term average rate of return on your investments is estimated from your asset allocation. For example, a grad student invested 100 percent in large-capitalization US stocks could anticipate a 9-10 percent long-term average rate of return (before adjusting for inflation). Other asset allocations will have different expected long-term average rates of return. Mid-term investments should be more conservative, with a lower expected average rate of return but more muted peaks and valleys.

Compare your investing and debt repayment expected rates of return, giving a handicap to the debt repayment side of the equation because there is no risk associated with debt repayment as there is with investing. Given a certain expected rate of return for your investments, the math would argue that debt below a certain interest rate will be a lower priority. For example, if you expect an 8 percent long-term average rate of return on investing, any debt below about 5 or 6 percent might become low-priority.

Second, evaluate your personal disposition. If you feel passionate about one type of goal over another, that should have some influence on your decision. I believe that your passion for a financial goal positively correlates with the amount of effort (i.e., money) you will put toward achieving it. For example, if you hate your debt, you should pay it off, even if the math favors investing. If you are very excited to start investing, perhaps you could reduce the debt repayment handicap in your math to only 1 percent. Just don’t justify keeping high-interest-rate credit card debt because you want to start investing!

The one caveat I’ll make to allowing your personal disposition to hold sway over the math is for a very risk-averse person: you will have to start investing eventually, even conservatively, if you want to reach financial independence. You will automatically pay your installment debt off in time even if you just make the minimum payments, whereas there is no mechanism to force you to start investing. So it is acceptable to prioritize (non-mortgage) debt repayment over investing, but when you’re done paying the debt, be sure that you hold yourself accountable to take the next step to start investing.

Know that More Goals Means Slower Progress

The more financial goals or purposes for your money that you have, the slower your progress will be toward each of them. If you feel strongly about working on multiple goals at once, accept this knowing that you are making some progress in all the areas that are important to you. But if you are frustrated by slow progress to the point that you end up not devoting money to any goals, working on one or a small number of goals at a time is a better fit for you. In this case, set concrete dollar-amount goals that you can achieve within months or a small number of years and work toward them intensely. For example, set $4,000 as your goal emergency fund size, but once you achieve it, move on to something else. Paying off one debt entirely could be another concrete goal.

Living Your Life

Since our income is limited (unless we have a side income), any money that you put toward the above types of financial goals is money that won’t be used for your everyday comforts and living expenses. By no means do I suggest that you suffer through a Spartan lifestyle while you put every penny possible toward your long-term future. Everything must be in balance for you. A guideline like the Balanced Money Formula may help you work through what percentage of your income to use today and what percentage to put away for tomorrow.

My Choices During Grad School

When I was in grad school, the financial goal that most excited me was investing. Therefore, after ensuring that I could live within my means and establishing a $1,000 emergency fund, I started investing 10 percent of my gross income into my Roth IRA. Over time, I built up cash savings in my targeted savings accounts and also increased the fraction of my income that I saved for retirement. To devote more money to these goals, I reduced my living expenses by developing frugal practices. Paying off my remaining student loans was my lowest priority as they were subsidized during deferment. I’m happy with these choices given my personal disposition (not risk-averse), but if I were to do it over again I would have beefed up my emergency fund earlier, delaying increasing my investing percentage for a short time.