Personal Finance for PhDs

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Investing

Why You Should Contribute to Last Year’s Roth IRA

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Good news for you investors: The calendar may say 2021, but you can contribute to your 2020 Roth IRA up until Tax Day (May 17, 2021)! Why is this good news? Because you can continue to contribute to your Roth IRA (if you have contribution room) without taking up contribution room in 2021. In this way, you can roll forward some of your contribution room, even over multiple years. This is particularly useful for those of you expecting income increases in 2022 or so.

The IRS’s Retirement Account Contribution Window Extends until Tax Day

Every calendar year from January 1 to December 31, you can contribute to your retirement account for the current year. This applies to IRAs (Roth and traditional), 401(k)s, 403(b)s, etc. You can also contribute to last year’s retirement account in the subsequent calendar year up through Tax Day. You can even open and fund an IRA for the previous year!

Right now, between January 1, 2021 and May 17, 2021 (Tax Day), you have the choice of contributing to your 2020 IRA or your 2021 IRA assuming you are eligible and have contribution room in both years. In fact, you should contribute as much as you can to your prior year IRA before switching over to the current year IRA.

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Eligibility and Contribution Limits

I’m going to clear up the caveats I’ve been making right here.

Eligibility: You need “taxable compensation” in a calendar year to contribute to that year’s IRA. Employee (W-2) and self-employment income are both taxable compensation. Fellowship income, if not reported on a W-2, was not considered taxable compensation in 2019. However, the definition of taxable compensation was changed for 2020 and following to include taxable fellowship and scholarship income for graduate students and postdocs.

Further listening: Fellowship Income Is Now Eligible to Be Contributed to an IRA!

Contribution limit: The contribution limits on IRAs are pretty low, at least in comparison with workplace-based retirement accounts like 403(b)s and 401(k)s. For 2020, you can only contribute a maximum of $6,000 ($7,000 for those over age 50) or the amount of taxable compensation you had in the calendar year, whichever is lower. You do not have to contribute the entire $6,000 in a year; it’s fine to contribute $1,000 or $3,000 or whatever you can. When I say contribution room throughout this post, I mean the difference between your contribution limit, e.g., $6,000, and the amount you’ve already contributed.

Why Is Contributing to an IRA So Important?

You may be asking yourself why I’m writing about Roth IRA contributions in particular. After all, once you’re out of graduate school and actually able to save more money, don’t you have a reasonable expectation of receiving a 401(k) or similar employee benefit?

1) Yes, you probably will work somewhere that provides you with a 403(b) or 401(k) or other type of workplace-based retirement account (or you’ll be self-employed and have self-employment retirement accounts available to you). Exception: Some postdoc positions (and adjunct!) might not offer a 403(b). But you don’t know the future, so I think it’s better to be cautious and roll forward as much contribution room as you can.

2) Even if you have a workplace-based retirement account available to you, the rule of thumb for retirement contribution priority is: workplace up to the match, IRA, then workplace again. This is because you can buy just about any fund you want through any brokerage firm in your IRA, whereas your options in your workplace based account will be severely limited. It is assumed that you can find better quality (read: cheaper) investment options through your IRA, so that should be prioritized. However, you should definitely check out your options through your workplace account before assuming this is true for you; some universities offer good, low-cost institutional investment options that might be even better than what you can buy as an individual.

3) Your workplace might only offer a traditional retirement account, so an IRA will give you the option of using a Roth, which you could take if you think it’s the better choice for you in a given year.

Why Am I Specifying a Roth IRA?

As far as your taxes go, if you’re contributing to a Roth IRA in both calendar years, it doesn’t matter which one you choose during the overlapping period. If you were contributing to a traditional IRA instead, it would matter: Your contributions to last year’s IRA would count for a tax deduction on last year’s tax return (hence being able to contribute up until Tax Day). But with a Roth IRA, you aren’t taking a tax deduction, so you’ll pay your full tax on the contribution no matter in which year you make it.

Always Contribute to Last Year’s IRA First

Now we come to my suggestion to contribute as much as you can to last year’s IRA before switching to this year’s (aka roll forward contribution room), either because you have reached your contribution limit or because Tax Day has passed.

The advantage is most clearly seen in the year that you experience an increased ability to contribute to your IRA (as long as you haven’t been maxing out your contribution room). This could happen because:

  • You decrease your expenses so that you can save more
  • You start earning a side income
  • You finish your PhD and take a higher-paying position (postdoc or Real Job)
  • You finish your postdoc and get a Real Job

In these cases, you may be able and want to contribute more than $6,000 to your IRA in one calendar year, and you are only able to do that if you split the contribution between your prior year IRA and your current year IRA.

But you should practice this every year, not just in a year when you expect an increased ability to contribute because:

  • You don’t know what will happen throughout the whole next calendar year, and your ability to contribute to an IRA could increase unexpectedly (e.g., you receive a windfall, a side income presents itself, you decide to leave grad school/your postdoc early for a better-paying job, you combine finances with a higher-earning person).
  • You can roll forward your contribution room into future years. For instance, if you can contribute $5,000 each calendar year to an IRA, you can carry forward some or all of your $1,000 excess contribution room, so that in the year that you are able to contribute more, for example, you can contribute $6,000 to your current year IRA and perhaps $1,000 to your prior year IRA.

An Illustration (with Numbers!)

The advantage of this strategy is more easily understood with an example.

Let’s say you’re a graduate student in 2020 and 2021, earning $30,000 per year. You are a superstar saver, so you contribute 12% of your gross income to your Roth IRA every month. In 2020, your total contribution to your 2020 Roth IRA was $3,600.

In the first five months of 2021, you continue to contribute to your 2020 Roth IRA, which brings your 2020 Roth IRA contributions up to $5,100. In the seven remaining calendar months of 2021, you contribute $2,100 to your 2021 Roth IRA. Your remaining contribution room for 2021 is $3,900.

January 2022 hits and you start a Real Job! Your new yearly salary is $72,000, and you increase your savings rate to 20%. This means that you can put $1,200 each month into your retirement account(s).

In the first four months of 2022, you max out your 2021 Roth IRA with $3,900 and also put $900 into your 2022 Roth IRA or other retirement account options. You can use the rest of 2022 to max out your 2022 Roth IRA and contribute to your other retirement account options.

In this example, you ended up contributing $17,100 to your Roth IRA over three years ($5,100 in 2020, $6,000 in 2021, and $6,000 in 2022). Had you not rolled forward your contribution room, you would have contributed only $13,200 to your Roth IRA ($3,600 in each of 2020 and 2021 and $6,000 in 2022). (The rest of the money would go into your other retirement account options in 2021, presumably.)

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The Psychology of a Ceiling

The previous illustration assumed that you would save at the same rate no matter what contribution room you had available or what account you used. However, if you are a competitive person, you might benefit even more from rolling forward your contribution room by contributing to your prior year Roth IRA first.

I’ve noticed that many people strive to max our their Roth IRAs each year, irrespective of the actual amount or percentage they might otherwise want to save. They use the contribution limit as their goal. This is not a good thing if you would otherwise contribute more than the limit, but I think many grad students and postdocs might have the opposite issue: without the limit serving as an implicit goal, they might contribute less than the limit.

By rolling forward your contribution room, you can create ever-higher savings rate goals for your Roth IRA, which might modify your behavior and help you save even more overall.

I fell victim (in a good way!) to this psychology in a similar scenario. When I started contributing to my Roth IRA, my goal was 10% ($2,400) per year. But once I found out that my now-husband maxed his Roth IRA out every year, I made keeping up with him and maxing out my goal, too. I found creative ways to gradually increase my savings rate. I didn’t quite make it to $5,500/year (the contribution limit at the time) by the end of graduate school, but I sure got a lot closer than $2,400/year.

I think the contribution limit can create the same kind of competitiveness, and rolling forward your contribution room makes the challenge even greater.

My Personal Experience with Contributing to Prior Year Roth IRAs

A couple years before we finished our PhDs, my husband and I started following this suggestion of contributing to our prior year Roth IRAs as much as possible before switching to our current year Roth IRAs. It seemed not to matter much for a couple years until we experienced an income increase, and then having the extra contribution room was really helpful.

My husband’s Real Job offered a 401(k), but it was through a notoriously expensive full-service brokerage firm, which we did not want to use. Instead, we contributed our target amount of savings to our Roth IRAs (still maxing out the prior year first) and a self-employment retirement account (available through my business). The extra Roth IRA contribution room we created through rolling forward was particularly helpful in the transition year because 1) it took some time to figure out our 401(k) and self-employment retirement account options and 2) my contribution room in my self-employment retirement account wasn’t very high after working on the business for only a few months.

Further reading: Avoiding an Expensive 401(k) Plan through Self-Employment

How to Successfully Plan for Retirement Before and After Obtaining Your PhD

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In this episode, Emily interviews Dr. Brandon Renfro, a finance professor and financial advisor. Brandon shares the tortuous path that led him to his current faculty position at East Texas Baptist University and side business in retirement advising. They discuss the long-term financial effects of doing a PhD – both positive and negative – and how to have a successful retirement even if you can’t save (much) during your PhD training.

Links mentioned in episode

PhD plan for retirement

0:00 Introduction

1:05 Please Introduce Yourself

Dr. Brandon Renfro has a PhD in Finance. He is both an academic and a practitioner. He advises retirement advising for individuals. He does financial planning while being a tenure track professor.

2:02 What was your career trajectory?

Brandon says that he “walked backwards” or stumbled into his PhD. As an undergraduate, he planned to go to law school. He was advised to major in business in preparation for law school. He took an American enterprise course and saw a presentation about the time value of money in the retirement planning context. This presentation inspired him, so he majored in finance and loved it. He went to law school but says he crashed and burned. He was in the military and had GI bill benefits. He decided to use his GI bill benefits for an Master of Business Administration (MBA). He asked his MBA advisor about adjunct teaching. He had to have 18 graduate hours in the discipline to teach a course. He discovered he loved teaching. He decided he wanted to teach full time. He feels fortunate that he got a tenure track position at a liberal arts college in Louisiana, where he worked for three semesters. Now he is in his third semester at East Texas Baptist.

Emily points out that Brandon tried stuff and saw what stuck. Brandon agrees that this is important to explain to students today. He says many students set a goal and stick to it no matter what, even if the path isn’t right for them. He says there is a time when you should recognize if you don’t love what you’re doing and you should try something different. Brandon says he would tell his 18 year old self to major in finance, but at the time it didn’t occur to him.

Emily asks how Brandon handled the sunk costs of going to law school. Brandon clarifies that he didn’t meet the GPA requirements to continue law school but he wasn’t sad about it. He says he was miserable in law school. He had taken out loans to pay for the year in law school. He says it was $20,000 that he spent to learn that he didn’t want to be an attorney. He says if he looks at it like it’s money he spent to learn that he loves being a finance professor, it was worth it.

7:47 Given that a person has decided to do a PhD and maybe a postdoc, what are the effects of their financial outlook?

Emily starts by explaining that graduate students, postdocs, and early career PhDs have a lot of anxiety around saving for retirement. Most of these people are in their 20s or 30s and they know they are supposed to be investing for retirement. But planning for retirement feels overwhelming in the context of their competing financial demands, like student loan payments or saving for a house down payment, coupled with their suppressed income for an extended period of time.

Brandon says that if you put off starting a career to do a PhD, this will make saving and preparing for retirement a little more challenging. These are foregone years of savings. However, academics have the ability to work past typical retirement age. As a professor, you can work longer and save money for retirement for more years, even if you start work and start saving a little later in life. Emily clarifies that PhDs can add years on the back end, instead of on the front end, to the total years that they can work to save for retirement. PhDs can do this because their work is fairly intellectual, and hopefully they get better with time. It’s less daunting to add years at the end in these career paths than others. Brandon says it’s (physically) easier to talk about what you know than it is to work on a factory floor, and you can prolong the years you do this kind of work. Even as PhDs reach retirement age, they have options to be an instructor, lecturer, adjunct, or consultant. You can work less than a full time load, and still capitalize on your years of experience.

Brandon says even while you’re working in your 30s or 40s, you have the ability to leverage expertise outside the classroom. Even if you are working a full time tenure track position, you have a lot of knowledge that you can leverage in industry, even while you’re teaching. Emily shares that when she was an engineering PhD student at Duke University, she saw plenty of professors had consulting businesses or wrote books. In academia, there are many ways to step outside your primary role and leverage your expertise. Emily says that there are plenty of opportunities to have side hustles all through your career. She is part of a community of self employed PhDs, and many people’s self employed job is on the side of their full time job. Brandon believes there is a lot of potential for academics to be self employed. He says even if you were the lowest ranked student in the lowest ranked PhD program, you still have knowledge and you are already part of a select group. Emily says any PhD can find a market where their skills are valuable. They give examples of formatting and copy-editing and tutoring.

17:13 How can someone handle the income jump after the suppressed income period of being a trainee in a PhD or postdoc?

Brandon says in one phrase, avoid “lifestyle creep.” When you suddenly go from an undergraduate or PhD student lifestyle based on lower income to receiving a full time income, you need to be mindful to not immediately start living at the new income. He says you don’t need to be extremely frugal, but use a moderate amount of your new income to build your emergency savings, pay down consumer debt, and pay down student loans in order to be much better off in the long run.

Emily shares the standard personal finance advice to commit a large percentage of your raise to your financial goals. Either all of the raise or as much of the raise as you can, put it towards goals instead of your consumption spending. She says it applies even more when you have a large income jump. Most of it should be used to accelerate financial goals. When Emily and her husband finished their PhD programs, they applied this concept to their new “real jobs” income. They had several financial goals that they focused on and avoided lifestyle creep.

Brandon shares his story about buying a house. He was unsure where he would get his tenure track position, but he wanted to build equity without committing his family to a large mortgage payment. He bought a small rent house before they bought a house to live in. Emily brings up that some people rent their properties as they move, in contrast to how Brandon purchased the property purely as a rental property.

23:40 Grad students and some postdocs don’t pay into the social security system. What are the long term effects of missing out on these years of contributions?

Brandon explains that social security benefits are based on 35 years of covered earnings. Essentially, it’s an average of your highest 35 years of earnings. If you’re starting to contribute later, do the math. If you’re in your early 30s, you may be in your late 60s before you have 35 years of covered earnings. The issue is that your benefit will be calculated with some zeros in the 35 year average, which skews down your average. When you’re on the back end of your career, this may influence your decision to work for a few more years to replace some of the years where you contributed zero dollars to social security.

26:59 What steps can someone who’s in or recently been in PhD training do to mitigate negative effects of lower income and not contributing to retirement?

Brandon brings up the psychological benefit of being used to living on a small income. He says to continue to live like that for a couple of years so that you can build yourself a financial cushion and start saving for retirement. He says eventually the feeling goes away and you get used to the new level of income. Psychologically, it’s harder to start saving for financial goals later.

Emily says that this is classic personal finance advice. Sometimes the lifestyles of PhD students are lower than those of college students. She says it’s difficult to deflate lifestyle. You might see the higher paycheck from your first real job, then you lock yourself into higher housing costs or buy a new car. It’s difficult to take a step back, but it’s much easier to keep a similar lifestyle and put the new income to your financial goals and slowly work up your lifestyle.

30:16 If a person starts saving during graduate school, what kind of effect can that have on retirement?

Brandon explains the first presentation that he saw on the effect of compound interest. If you started when you were 18 years old and you saved just $2,000 per year in a retirement account, you would have a million dollars for retirement if you simply earned the average market return. He says the same is still true if you start at 30 or 32, but there are a few less years for compounding to take effect.

Emily says that even during graduate school, saving a couple hundred dollars a month is accessible. It’s not a thousand dollars every month that you need to save. The earlier you take these steps, the more and more impact it can make. It really does make a difference to take these steps earlier.

Brandon adds that at least, don’t make negative steps. Buying a cheaper car or cheaper clothes can go a long way. Emily says that the professional students, like law students, were living a higher lifestyle even though they were living on loans. She says the smallest amount of debt that you have to take on during training will make it easier for you in a few years.

35:50 What do you do for clients?

Brandon can help with anything within realm of retirement planning. He can help someone starting out. He can help graduate students and postdocs sort through their different options for retirement plans. He can help with decisions about how to invest within retirement plans. Brandon encourages you to take retirement very seriously and to think very hard about putting off retirement. He says it’s really hard to make a strong case against contributing to a plan with an employer match. He says employer match is essentially free money. Emily says an employer match is a 50% or 100% return on investment.

Emily clarifies that someone looking at different options can ask Brandon for help considering which option to prioritize. Brandon can help overcome “analysis paralysis.” Brandon says something is almost always better than nothing, and you need to just do something. He encourages you to envision your retirement and what your financial goal looks like.

40:03 Final Comments

Brandon’s contact information is at brandonrenfro.com. If anyone has a question about something that he hasn’t published an article about on his website, send him an email and he will write about it!

41:15 Conclusion

Can a PhD Achieve FIRE?

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Would you like for paid work to become optional for the rest of your life? What would you do with your time if you didn’t have to work? When you become “financially independent,” you have enough money and passive income streams to sustain you for the rest of your life without earning any more. At that point, you have the option of retiring (whether or not you actually do). Achieving this goal in youth or middle age instead of 65 is the objective of adherents of the FIRE movement (Financial Independence / Retire Early). Typically, FIRE walkers earn high salaries and save a radically large percentage of their income. This article explores whether FIRE is a good or reasonable goal for a PhD (graduate student, postdoc, or PhD with a Real Job) to set.

Can PhD FIRE

 

Further listening: This Prof Used Geographic Arbitrage to Design Her Ideal Career and Personal Life

What Is the FIRE Movement?

The FIRE movement (or at least the current iteration of the trend) started to gain traction within the last decade. Two of the fathers of the movement who documented their FIRE journeys on popular blogs are Jacob Lund Fisker (Early Retirement Extreme) and Pete Adeney (Mr. Money Mustache). They both advocate establishing a very frugal lifestyle to 1) save a high percentage of your income while working and 2) minimize the size of the nest egg needed to retire from paid work.

Now that the FIRE movement has gained popularity, it has diversified (it’s not just for young, single, male tech workers!) and splintered. One of the useful delineations is among ‘lean FIRE,’ ‘FIRE,’ and ‘fat FIRE.’ Roughly speaking, lean FIRE adherents seek to achieve FIRE primarily through expense minimization (and a high salary as well) while fat FIRE adherents seek to achieve FIRE primarily through vastly out-earning their spending (and keeping a lid on expenses as well), with regular FIRE falling somewhere in the middle.

Why Would a PhD Want to FIRE?

A person who completes a PhD has passion for her work (as well as incredible perseverance). I find it hard to imagine that such a person would want to retire early from her chosen field – especially those pursuing a life of the mind in academia.

But people who complete PhDs are also people. They end up in all types of jobs with all levels of job satisfaction. Even those with high job satisfaction might want to escape the demands of full-time work.

Even if retiring early is not attractive, becoming financially independent may be. Once you are financially independent, even if you keep working, you don’t have to be concerned about losing your job or put up with a job that’s no longer a good fit. Even during the journey to FIRE, you will have a much, much greater degree of financial security than most Americans, which brings peace of mind.

How Do You FIRE?

While difficult and rare to achieve, the mechanism of becoming FIRE is easy to understand.

To become financially independent (from active work), you need to have investments and/or passive income streams that will pay for your expenses in perpetuity. I’ll focus this discussion on the investments needed rather than the passive income streams.

Basically, to achieve FIRE, you need a nest egg of investments that is large enough that you can withdraw what you need to live on each year without eating into the principal. The higher your living expenses, the larger the nest egg you need to support them in perpetuity.

FIRE adherents usually follow the “4% Rule,” also called the Safe Withdrawal Rate (SWR), or perhaps a more conservative 3% or 3.5% Rule. The 4% Rule means that withdrawing 4% of your portfolio balance each year gives you a very good chance of your portfolio not running out of money prior to your death; it is based on historical market returns. (Early retirees may adjust this rule to be more conservative due to their post-FIRE life expectancy being longer than a typical retirement.)

The 4% Rule shows you the two vital factors to FIRE: size of your nest egg and yearly living expenses. Therefore, to achieve FIRE you must save (invest) a lot of money and keep your living expenses in check. For example, for a household with $50,000 in yearly living expenses, a portfolio of $1,250,000 is needed.

A person pursuing LeanFIRE will primarily focus on minimizing living expenses. The rough definition of LeanFIRE is living expenses of under $40,000/year or a portfolio of $1,000,000. A person pursuing FatFIRE will primarily focus on building a large portfolio. The rough definition of FatFIRE is a portfolio of over $2,500,000 or living expenses of at least $100,000/year.

There is a delightful synergy between the necessarily high savings rate and necessarily low expenses. Given a static income, the less you spend on living expenses, the higher your savings rate can become, enabling you to achieve FIRE even faster. Mr. Money Mustache published in “The Shockingly Simple Math Behind Early Retirement” a set of ratios that illustrates the relationship between savings rate and years of saving needed until the SWR could be achieved. For example, with a savings rate of 10%, you need 51 years to save before you can retire, but that drops to 22 years with a savings rate of 40% and 8.5 years with a savings rate of 70%.

Because the key to achieving FIRE is an unusually (to say the least) high savings rate, it is almost exclusively pursued by high income earners. There is a floor on how low you can drop your living expenses (although that varies person to person), so if your income doesn’t exceed your expenses by much, achieving the “E” in FIRE becomes a remote possibility.

Can PhDs FIRE?

PhDs can FIRE if they commit to the process, but they have challenges that are not shared by their peers from college who went immediately into high-paying careers. (It has been done; Jacob Lund Fisker has a PhD and retired at age 33.)

The ideal path for someone pursuing FIRE is to obtain a high-paying job immediately upon completion of their education at 18 or 22, commit to a low-cost lifestyle, set up a radically high savings rate into investments, and keep the pedal to the metal until FIRE is achieved, for instance by age 30 or 35.

A PhD becomes derailed from this ideal path upon entering graduate school. Unless he previously set up massive passive income streams, a grad student’s income is nowhere near large enough to achieve a high savings rate (even if you live in a van like Ken Ilgunas did at Duke). This means that pursuing FIRE with a high savings rate will have to wait until landing a post-PhD Real Job.

However, the graduate school experience offers a unique advantage to FIRE: A necessarily low lifestyle. The $40,000/year maximum living expense for the definition of LeanFIRE is much higher than what virtually every graduate student takes home after paying income tax. Even a couple living the graduate student lifestyle can usually spend less than that amount.

Further reading: What Grad Students Can Learn from the FIRE Movement

A PhD also confers the possibility of a high income. While PhDs are not needed in currently high-paying careers such as finance, medicine (some specialties), computer science, and engineering, a person with a PhD does on average earn much more in a lifetime than the average person with less education, and people with PhDs can absolutely land well-paying jobs.

Therefore, a PhD maintaining her grad school lifestyle (more or less) while earning a high salary post-PhD is a recipe for FIRE, albeit starting in earnest closer to age 30 than age 20. A LeanFIRE early retirement can still be achieved within a short period, and of course she could opt for FatFIRE if her income is generous enough.

However, a graduate student (or postdoc) who commits to FIRE can go further than this default:

  1. Instead of living at 100% of net income during graduate school, save (invest) as much as possible. This will have the dual effect of further lowering living expenses and getting a head start on building your nest egg.
  2. Experiment with frugality to discover whether you want to ultimately pursue LeanFIRE, FIRE, or FatFIRE. You may decide that living below a graduate student’s means is not what you want long-term.
  3. Finish your training as quickly as possible to increase your income as early as possible. Prepare yourself to land a high-paying job through professional development and networking.

Further reading: Whether You Save During Grad School Can Have a $1,000,000 Effect on Your Retirement

What Is Your Reason to FIRE?

Ultimately, it’s vital to have clarity on why you want to pursue FIRE. It’s easy to become consumed by the numbers and the process and lose track of your motivation along the way. Sometimes it’s possible to achieve aspects of the FIRE lifestyle without actually being FIRE, and I think that’s particularly true for PhDs who have a lot of transferrable skills and potential for autonomy. Remember the parable of the fisherman and the businessman. Just like you shouldn’t put your “Real Life” on hold during graduate school, you shouldn’t put your Real Life on hold while building up to FIRE.

If you are a PhD (-in-training) and seriously pursuing FIRE, I’d love to interview you on my podcast! Please fill out this form to volunteer.

Investing Strategies to Grow Your Wealth During Your PhD Training

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The most important investment you make during graduate school or your postdoc is in your career. But alongside that primary objective, many PhDs also invest money during their training. By far the top challenge or impediment to investing during graduate school or a postdoc is the low pay, and only a fraction of trainees are financially able and ready to invest. However, investing even a small amount of money on a regular basis throughout graduate school and a postdoc can have an enormous impact on lifetime wealth. The even better news is that the process of investing itself is simpler and easier than you probably think.

investing strategies phd training

 

Many investors, both novice and experienced, fall into the trap of thinking that to maximize their investment outcomes, they should focus on choosing the best investments. In fact, there is no reliable way to pick winning investments. There are only three aspects of your investments that affect your investment outcome that you can control: your savings rate, your investment asset allocation, and the cost of your investments.

This article outlines how to grow your wealth during graduate school by optimizing those three factors and implementing a few other key strategies.

A version of this post was originally published on GradHacker.

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Choose Passive Investments

Empirical studies have borne out time after time that passive investing is a more successful strategy than active investing after costs are factored in. Basically, what that means is that buying a set of investments that is representative of a market sector overall (e.g., the entire stock market) is more successful in the long term than trying to pick winners from that same sector. In trying to beat the market, both professional investors and individual investors consistently fail to even match it.

Passive investing is a far simpler strategy than active investing and much less time-consuming to initiate and maintain because there are plenty of high-quality passive investment products available. To enact a passive investing strategy, buy an index fund or an indexed exchange traded fund (ETF). For example, there are index funds and ETFs that reflect the entire stock market or the S&P 500, among numerous others.

The great bonus here is that passive investing is far more time-efficient than active investing. You don’t have to research individual investments to death; just buy them all!

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Maximize Your Savings Rate

Instead of putting your time and energy into agonizing over your investment choices and trying to optimize them, direct it toward increasing your savings rate into your investments. You can free up more cash flow for your investments by decreasing your expenses or increasing your income.

As simple as that sounds, every grad student knows that both time and money are very tight during this phase of life. If you pursue increasing your income or decreasing your expenses, you must be very selective about how you do so. The following posts discuss both of these strategies in much more detail.

Decreasing your expenses:

Increasing your income:

Increase Your Income

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Pick an Asset Allocation and Stick with It

Your asset allocation is the percentage of your investment that is in each asset class or sub-asset class. The three main asset classes are stocks, bonds, and cash. Your asset allocation should be chosen with respect to your investing goal. For a very long-term goal, such as retirement for someone in her 20s or 30s, a very aggressive asset allocation is appropriate, such as 80-100% stocks. If you are a DIY investor, your brokerage firm can help guide you to an appropriate asset allocation.

Your asset allocation should change as the timeline on your goal grows shorter, but not quickly or dramatically. A common pitfall that investors fall into is trying to time the market by changing their asset allocation, i.e., they pull money from stocks into bonds or cash when they anticipate a stock market drop and then try to find the right time to push it back in. While the theory of selling high and buying low is fine, it’s almost impossible to successfully time the market consistently, even for professionals. Instead, maintain your appropriate asset allocation and ride the market down and up.

Minimize Investing Costs

All investments have costs associated with owning and transacting them. You can think of those costs as directly coming out of your investment returns. Over the course of several decades of investing, these costs can reduce your balance in retirement by hundreds of thousands of dollars!

In fact, costs are one of the big reasons that active investment strategies fail to perform as well as passive investment strategies. While active strategies sometimes do generate higher top-line returns than passive strategies, their higher cost almost always knocks the real return experienced by the investor below than that of passive strategies.

With mutual funds, index funds, and ETFs, the cost of owning the investment is expressed very clearly in its expense ratio (a percentage). A low-cost ETF or index fund will have an expense ratio of a couple tenths of one percent or lower, while a high-cost, actively managed mutual fund will have an expense ratio of one percent or higher. For a passive strategy, look for funds with very low expense ratios.

Watch out as well for fees tacked on top of the expense ratio of the fund you purchased itself; these are often charged by the person or institution managing the account, such as a 401(k) administrator, a financial advisor, or a roboadvisor. Make sure that you have a compelling reason for paying such a fee before signing up for one, because it will come directly out of your returns.

Dollar Cost Average

The strategy of dollar cost averaging (as opposed to irregular lump sum investing) is to invest a set amount of money on a regular basis. If you receive a regular stipend/salary, this translates to investing the same amount of money every pay period, ideally through an automated transfer.

One of the big advantages of dollar cost averaging is that committing to the strategy prevents you from attempting to time the market. When you use your discretion over the timing of your investment schedule, many of us will try to guess whether the market is on an upswing or downswing and shift our buying behavior accordingly. This is rarely a successful strategy, whether it is done haphazardly or very deliberately.

In fact, dollar cost averaging actually guarantees that you “buy low and sell high” in a sense, although you are not selling. Because you invest the same dollar amount every period, when the market is low you buy more shares and when it is high you buy fewer shares.

Use a Roth IRA

If your investing goal is to save for retirement – likely the first investing goal you should set as it is the longest-term – it is a great idea to use a tax-advantaged retirement account. A tax-advantaged retirement account protects your investments from taxes over the decades between your contribution and withdrawal in retirement; paying tax year after year would otherwise eat away at your returns. Therefore, using a tax-advantaged retirement account maximizes your returns, as long as you abide by the restrictions on access that it imposes.

Only very rarely do graduate students have access to a tax-advantaged retirement account through their universities; therefore, an individual retirement arrangement (IRA) is their only option if they are eligible. Some postdocs receive retirement account benefits through their universities and some do not. IRAs are set up independently and managed entirely by the investor. This may sound like a big responsibility, but this freedom of choice means you can pick the optimal investments for you.

IRAs come in two varieties: traditional and Roth. Roth IRAs are generally recommended for current lower-earners with great income growth potential, so they are an excellent fit for graduate students and some postdocs!

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Get Started ASAP

Probably the biggest investing mistake you can make is to procrastinate getting started. On average, the stock market ends two out of every three years higher than it started; if you’re ready to start investing but put it off, more times than not you miss out on earnings that could have gone into your coffer. I frequently speak with PhDs-in-training who stay stuck in investing analysis paralysis for years on end. You can always course correct if you realize you made a poor choice with your investments initially, but you can never recover lost time. So even if you aren’t confident you’re making the perfect investment, just get started!

My Experience with Investing During Graduate School

Investing is one of my favorite subjects on which to teach, write, and coach, and my enthusiasm for the subject is due to the thrilling experience I had with investing during my seven years of PhD training. Starting at $0 in 2007, my husband (also a grad student over the same period) and I together grew our retirement investment portfolio to approximately $75,000 by the time we defended in 2014. The success we experienced is largely attributable to our aggressive and increasing savings rate and the long bull market that started in 2009.

I had an inauspicious start with investing when I first opened and funded my Roth IRA. I didn’t actually purchase the investment I intended to when I opened my account, so my money was going into cash! The really embarrassing part of the story is that I didn’t catch my mistake for over a year. When I finally did, I moved my IRA from that first brokerage firm to one I preferred and made sure that all my money went into my investment of choice, a target date retirement fund.

Deciding that a target date retirement fund was right for me only took a couple hours of research, and as it’s a set-it-and-forget-it strategy I have spent zero time over the last decade-ish maintaining it (though I do regularly check the balance). Instead of spending my time and energy monkeying with my choice of investments, I used them to find ways to add more money to my investments.

When I first started contributing to my Roth IRA in 2007, I saved 10% of my gross income, which was $200/month. After we married and combined finances, my husband and I set a lofty goal to max out two Roth IRAs each year. We used frugal strategies to incrementally reduce our spending to free up more money for investing. (Our top five frugal strategies alone helped us reduce our yearly spending by approximately $6,000.) While we didn’t quite achieve our goal during grad school, we did end with a 17.5% retirement savings rate.

Investing is about far more than just numbers to me. Investing throughout graduate school has not only given my family financial security, but it enabled both my husband and I to pursue our post-PhD dream jobs, even though they are risky and less remunerative in the short term.

I want other early-career PhDs to experience a similar degree of financial freedom as soon as possible in their lives, which is why I am such a proponent of investing even during the incredibly financially challenging graduate and postdoc training periods. If you’d like to go even deeper into this subject matter, sign up for my free 7-day email course on investing for early-career PhDs.

Should a Graduate Student Save for Retirement in a Roth IRA?

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For graduate students with sufficient stipends, investing during graduate school is a fantastic financial goal. Counterintuitively, the long-term goal of funding retirement should be the first or one of the first investing goals any individual has. An Individual Retirement Arrangement (IRA) may be an appropriate vehicle in which to invest during graduate school, when the vast majority of graduate students do not have access to a retirement account at their universities such as a 403(b) or 457. But not all graduate students are eligible to contribute to an IRA, and an IRA is only the best choice for certain investing goals. If a graduate student opens an IRA, she must choose either a Roth or a traditional version.

grad student Roth IRA

A version of this article originally appeared on GradHacker.

What is an IRA?

An IRA protects your investments from being taxed while they are growing. An IRA is not synonymous with certain investments, but rather is an envelope around whatever investments you have chosen. As the name implies, the IRA is intended to be used for retirement savings, and by protecting your investments from taxes over the decades, your investments will grow at their fastest possible rate. Due to the power of compound interest, not having to pay tax on the growth of your investments can make a significant positive impact on their value. Therefore, it is a very good idea to use tax-advantaged retirement accounts to the greatest extent of your ability.

In 2018, the contribution limit for people under the age of 50 is $5,500 per year or your amount of taxable compensation, whichever is lower. You can make contributions to your 2018 IRA until April 15, 2019.

Many brokerage firms require a certain minimum account size that may be too high for a grad student just starting out with saving. If that is the case for your preferred brokerage firm, you can save into a savings account or IRA at another brokerage firm (some waive account size minimums if you set up a monthly auto-transfer) and transfer the money when you reach the minimum.

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Who can contribute to an IRA?

Only taxable compensation (previously known as earned income) can be contributed to an IRA. A graduate student’s stipend is taxable compensation if it is reported on a W-2 at tax time. If a grad student has only fellowship or training grant income during a calendar year (not reported on a W-2) and no outside income, he will not be able to contribute to an IRA for that year. Senators Elizabeth Warren and Mike Lee proposed the Graduate Student Saving Act of 2016, which would include fellowship stipends as taxable compensation for the purposes of IRA contributions, but it was not enacted.

If you are married to a person with taxable compensation, you can contribute to a spousal IRA, again subject to the limit of $5,500 or the amount of taxable compensation. There are income limits as well for IRAs, but they are much higher than grad student stipend levels.

If your stipend is not taxable compensation, you can still save for retirement, though it may not be inside an IRA.

Is a Roth or a traditional IRA better for a graduate student?

There are two versions of IRAs available: Roth and traditional. The first-pass difference between the two types of accounts is when you will pay income tax on the money inside it. While the money in your IRA grows tax-free, you do have to pay income tax either upon the contribution (Roth IRA) or withdrawal (traditional IRA).

Initially, when people decide between the Roth and traditional IRA, they compare the marginal tax rates the taxpayer will be in upon contribution vs. withdrawal. The idea is to opt to pay the tax when they are in the lower marginal tax bracket. You know your marginal tax bracket currently; for graduate students without outside income, it is usually the 15% tax bracket or lower. You do not know what your marginal tax bracket will be during your retirement, as both your income and the tax brackets themselves will change in the intervening decades. However, this educated guess applies to the majority of graduate students: You are currently in a relatively low tax bracket because you are in training and building your career. Later in your life, you expect to have a much higher income and be in a much higher tax bracket. If that assumption holds, the Roth IRA is the more appropriate choice. Virtually every graduate student I’ve spoken with about this has chosen to contribute to a Roth IRA during graduate school.

The Roth IRA has some additional flexibility that the traditional IRA does not that may be attractive for graduate students.

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What are the pros and cons of using a Roth IRA?

As graduate students usually lack access to other tax-advantaged retirement account options, the best practice is to only contribute money to a Roth IRA that you intend to invest for retirement. This is in line with the government’s purpose in creating IRAs. The main con of using any tax-advantaged retirement account is that accessing the funds earlier may trigger an income tax payment and a 10% penalty. However, the Roth IRA is unusually flexible.

As you have already paid income tax on the contributions to your Roth IRA, you can remove them at any time without additional tax or penalty. Five years after opening a Roth IRA, a first-time home buyer can remove up to $10,000 without incurring a penalty.

Because of the Roth IRA’s flexibility, some people use it “off-label” as a general savings vehicle. Others may make contributions even if they are not 100% sure they will preserve the money for retirement. Just be sure to match your investment strategy with your intended use for the money; the type of investments you choose for long-term money should be different than those for mid- or short-term money.

Of course, saving for retirement is not an appropriate goal for every graduate student. If you are currently taking on debt (student loans, personal loans, credit cards), your first priority should be to minimize that debt acquisition or even start to repay it. If you can keep your head above water with your stipend but don’t have any kind of cash savings for emergencies or short-term expenses, saving those funds should be your goal, not investing (yet). Even graduate students whose stipends allow for saving may not want to start investing for the long term if they have other financial priorities and their values don’t align with early wealth-building.

If you are a graduate student with a livable stipend who values financial security or independence, using a Roth IRA for your retirement savings is a wonderful choice. If you don’t have taxable compensation, you can still save for retirement in another vehicle. If you aren’t sure what financial goal you are saving for, using a Roth IRA is an option but saving in a taxable account is almost as beneficial and prevents the different purposes from becoming confused.

Did you save for retirement during graduate school? If so, did you use a Roth IRA?

Start Investing During Graduate School

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During graduate school, you’re heavily investing in yourself and your career. You’re sacrificing significant income potential to receive super-advanced training in your field. You’re probably anticipating a large income jump upon exiting grad school. Why should you even try to make your stipend income work for you? Is it possible or feasible to start investing while you’re so consumed by graduate school?

start investing

A version of this article originally appeared on GradHacker.

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The Power of Compound Interest

Einstein declared that compound interest is the most powerful force in the universe. Just kidding – that’s an oft-misattributed quote. But compound interest is amazingly powerful: When you invest money and achieve a rate of return consistently over time, your money experiences exponential growth. The growth in your account balance itself is what grows with time.

Let’s look at a toy example of the power of compound interest (in reality, you would never receive a high rate of return on a consistent basis, but rather it would fluctuate):

You make a one-time investment of $5,500 (no ongoing contribution). Below is a table of your account balance at different points in time, given different rates of return.

compound_interest_table

Now imagine how your earnings would layer and multiply as you consistently invest year after year throughout your career! Given enough time and a reasonable average rate of return, even a modest amount of yearly savings can turn into millions of dollars.

Compound interest works for you in the case of investing (if irregularly), but it works against you in the cases of inflation. The long-term average rate of inflation in the US is a little above 3%. That means that you must invest your money to get a rate of return of at least 3-4% to just maintain its purchasing power!

The principle behind the power of compound interest teaches us that the more time given to the process the better it works for you. Graduate school is a wonderful time to start investing for the long term, if you haven’t already. You won’t be able to save much money, at least not in comparison with how much you might after graduating, but the extra few years of compounding will work their magic and over the decades that small amount of money will grow into a staggering sum.

Passive Investing Is Maximally Time-Efficient

Many graduate students are intimidated by the prospect of investing. They suffer from analysis paralysis at several different steps and end up doing nothing, even if they have the capital available. My goal is to dispel the misconception that investing has to be difficult or time-consuming. Certainly if you want to make a hobby of investing you can spend a considerable amount of time on it, but that’s absolutely not required. The average graduate student can invest quite successfully while spending only a few hours to set up the investment and a few minutes over the course of a year checking up on it.

The approach to investing that is most successful and time-efficient is called passive investing. When you passively invest, you strive to get the same returns in your personal account as some sector(s) of the market. You are not looking to beat the market, but rather match it. This is in contrast to active investing, which involves picking individual investments and timing the buying and selling to try to beat the market average. When these two approaches have been compared head to head, the passive investing strategy beats out the active strategy 80% of the time. Plus, it’s simpler, easier, and cheaper.

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To passively invest, you simply choose to put your money into index funds. Index funds replicate a market sector. For instance, the S&P 500 index fund replicates large-capitalization stocks by holding the largest 500 companies traded on the US stock exchanges. Depending on your investing goals, you could buy an index fund that represents the entire US stock market or bond market – or their international counterparts – or a mix of several index funds. Then, once you have invested, you stay invested for the long term – no jumping in and out. (You can often find an Exchange Traded Fund version of your preferred index fund, which is usually offered at an even lower cost.)

Because the passive investing strategy is a buy and hold strategy, the significant time investment is up front to research and choose your index fund(s). This can be done in as little as a few minutes or as much as tens of hours, depending on how thoroughly you want to understand the investment. Once you have made your choice, you can just glance at the account balance a few times per year to make sure it’s in line with your expectations (given how the market is behaving).

How to Get Started Investing

If you are investing for retirement, your first decision is whether you can or should use a tax-advantaged retirement account, such as an individual retirement arrangement (IRA). (You must have taxable compensation to contribute to an IRA.) It’s very rare, though not totally unheard of, for graduate students to have access to a workplace-based retirement account, such as a 403(b). If you are opening an IRA, you will have to choose between a Roth and a traditional version.

Your next decision is where to open your investment account (IRA or taxable). Most DIY investors would do well to choose a brokerage firm. Vanguard, Fidelity, and Charles Schwab are all excellent, though not the only, options for low-cost index funds. With a brokerage firm, you will have a wide selection of investment options available to you (unlike at most banks). You can open and fund such an account completely online.

The next step is actually choosing your index funds, which is the one where you might spend the most time. Brokerage firms often offer similar index funds to one another, as they are all trying to replicate the same market sectors, though there may be subtle differences in the holdings or the cost. These brokerage firms usually offer tools and quizzes to help you identify the right investment for your time frame and risk tolerance.

If you don’t know where to start your research, check out target date retirement funds. They assume a risk tolerance for you based on your projected retirement year (e.g., 2055), and then invest in a small number of index funds to create an appropriate asset allocation. This type of fund handles all the necessary rebalancing among the index funds, so it is a totally hands-off investing strategy. For this reason, it is great for a graduate student who wants a set-it-and-forget-it investment strategy.

The biggest barrier to investing for a graduate student should be freeing up the money to put toward it rather than intimidation or analysis paralysis. Passive investing is totally compatible with the existing demands on a graduate student’s time and energy. For ideas on how to reduce your expenses and increase your income so that you have more money available for investing, see:

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If you have already started investing, are you using a passive strategy? Have you suffered from analysis paralysis with respect to investing? How are you harnessing the power of compound interest?