Just as useful as knowing what to do with respect to investing is knowing what not to do. In fact, some of the core investing principles that I teach involve pitfalls to avoid: don’t pay high fees, don’t jump in and out of the market, don’t delay, etc. This article details 11 common investor behaviors and choices that are detrimental. Don’t make these investing mistakes!

Wait to Get Started

There’s a common aphorism on investing: “It’s not timing the market, it’s time in the market.” We’ll get to market timing as an investing mistake later in this post; for now focus on the time in the market.

Once you are financially and mentally ready to invest, get in the game! Do not wait on the sidelines for months or years on end! On average, waiting means you’ll miss out on gains. The math of the power of compound interest show you just how damaging it is to miss out on even a year of returns.

Remember my example showing how the investments you make just during graduate school can translate to $1,000,000 in retirement? Instead, let’s say that you invested over your final four years of grad school instead of five. Your ending balance drops by $225,000!

Further reading:

• Are You Ready to Invest Your Grad Student Stipend?
• Whether You Save During Grad School Can Have a $1,000,000 Effect on Your Retirement

And on that note, one particular mistake that might cause you to wait to get started is that you…

Get Stuck in Analysis Paralysis

I’ve made this mistake more than once with my investments! Investing is an intimidating subject to approach for a novice. But investing isn’t complicated! (Some people like to make it (seem) complicated, but that isn’t better than a simple approach.) I’ll boil it down for a long-term goal like retirement: Buy a stock index fund and hold it until you need the money in retirement.

OK maybe you want a little more detail on that, but you don’t need much more before you get started! Really, you can learn all you need to know about investing in a couple hours. (If you’re super interested, keep going, of course, but you don’t have to.) After that, just start! You can refine and improve your strategy along the way if you want to as you learn more.

Think You (or Your Broker) Knows Better than the Market

Think you can beat the market or place your money with the person who can? Think again. After costs are taken into account, in a given year the vast majority of both individual investors and professional fund managers fail to even match the returns of the broad market sector they’re invested in. And to beat it year after year after year? Vanishingly rare.

The Efficient Market Hypothesis (EMH) states that it’s impossible to beat the market because share prices always account for all known information about each investment. There are no market inefficiencies to exploit through market timing or precise selection of individual investments.

The EMH is a theory and up for debate, but there is little evidence that contradicts it. Even the most well-known investor in our time to consistently beat the market, Warren Buffet, recommends the S&P 500 index fund, which simply tries to represent the market sector of large-capitalization stocks (source).

This is good news for those prone to the previous mistakes: there is little analysis needed to invest in index funds, and therefore you can skip the paralysis and jump right in.

Save Too Little

According to the EMH, you can’t control your investment outcome; the best you can do is match your (sub-)asset class of choice. What you can dial in are costs (more on that later) and your savings rate.

Given a certain rate of return on your investments, what’s the best way to double the amount of money you have in retirement? Save twice as much. Your savings rate is a linear scaling factor in the math of compound interest.

If your goal is to fund your retirement/become financially independent, you need to build up a very large nest egg. It takes decades to save what you need and to allow compound interest to work its magic. So in addition to starting early, save at a very healthy clip: 10% of your gross income is a great goal if you start in your 20s, more if you start in your 30s.

Bonus: The higher your savings rate, the smaller your goal savings amount. If you want to reach financial independence, you should save up approximately 25 times your yearly living expenses (following the 4% safe withdrawal rate). The more you reduce your living expenses, the smaller the nest egg is that you require to retire and the faster you’re able to save up to reach it. For example (given certain assumptions), increasing your retirement savings rate from 15 to 20% means that you can reach financial independence 6 years sooner. Jumping your savings rate up to 30% shaves an additional 9 years.

Further reading: The Shockingly Simple Math Behind Early Retirement

I know a retirement savings rate of 10-15% a big ask while you’re in grad school or a postdoc. If starting early and saving only a little have to play off against each other, start early with whatever rate you can. Just know that you’ll need to jump it up when your income increases.

Get Sucked in by Gimmicky Fintech

One of the great advances in personal finance in the last several years is the explosion of “fintech” or financial technology. Fintech has enabled small investors to access some services and benefits that were only previously available to higher net worth investors because financial advisors have been able to scale their services.

These fintech platforms are now heavily advertising to their new potential clients, i.e., you. While more choices for regular people with respect to investing is a good thing, this heavy advertising environment for the new technology has perhaps crowded out the choices that were and are still available for those same investors, which may in fact be the more appropriate.

For example, the rise of microinvesting platforms that enable people to invest as little as a few dollars per month might give the impression that 1) those platforms are the only ones available for beginning investors or 2) it is sufficient to invest only a few dollars per month. Believing either of those premises is detrimental to the investor.

Another example is roboadvising services. Roboadvisors are a lower-cost, lower-touch substitute for full-service human financial advisors. While they might represent a less expensive but sufficient alternative for a person who would otherwise use a financial advisor, they are a more expensive (i.e., possibly wasteful) alternative for someone who could manage his own investments just fine (the DIY approach) if he knew it was an option. (It’s an option! An easy one! Your brokerage firm will almost certainly make an asset allocation recommendation to you for free if that’s all you’re looking for.)

Pay Too Much or Too Little Attention

On the spectrum of how much attention you should pay to your investments, there is a wide range of what is appropriate. Only the extremes will get you into trouble.

You don’t need to pay a whole lot of attention to your long-term investments. If it stresses you out to see your balance fluctuate daily due to a choppy stock market – and especially if paying that close attention will cause you to try to time the market – force yourself to tune out. You don’t need to check your account balances or investment news daily.

On the other hand, you shouldn’t go years between check-ins, either. You do need to make sure that your investments are doing basically what you expected they would and that they are still appropriate for your goals. A quarterly check-in is sufficient for long-term investments.

Time the Market

One of the gravest investing mistakes that I’ve already hinted at is market timing, which is when you attempt to jump in or out of a market at just the right time to make a killing or avoid a staggering loss.

Guess what? It’s a super ineffective strategy, way worse than just staying invested or steadily adding to your investments. This again relates to the EMH. Any insight you might think you have about an impending skyrocketing or plummeting of the market has already occurred to a zillion other people and been priced in.

You might think you’re buying low and selling high or being fearful when others are greedy and greedy when others are fearful, but most of the time you’re probably just doing yourself a disservice. Besides, even if you guess right once and get out at the right time or in at the right time, you have to be right again to get back in/out!

Be Undiversified

One of the core tenants of modern portfolio theory is diversification. This means that instead of owning one investment of a type, e.g., one stock, you should own a collection of that type of investment. It’s the basic principle of not putting all your eggs in one basket. You never know which stock is going to be a huge winner and which will go to zero. Instead of picking only one or a handful, own a few tens or a few hundreds and spread out the risk.

One of the sneaky ways to become undiversified is through employer stock that you are given or able to purchase at a discount. If you have a high percentage of your portfolio (e.g., > 10%) tied up in employer stock, then not only is your job at risk if the company falters but much of your savings as well!

Pay Too Much in Fees

Fees, just like taxes, are a drag on your rate of return on investment. Instead of getting a 8% average annual rate of return, for example, fees or taxes might knock you down to 7.5, 7, or even 6%! That makes an enormous difference over the decades – to the tune of hundreds of thousands of dollars!

If we use tax-advantaged retirement accounts to avoid taxes on our retirement savings, doesn’t it also make sense that we should minimize our fees?

Sure, it would be worthwhile to pay higher fees if you actually got better investment returns, but, after accounting for fees, approximately 80% of actively managed funds underperform similar passively managed funds.

The way that you can keep an eye on fees is through a fund’s expense ratio. That’s a single number that expresses the all-in costs of owning the fund in terms of a percentage. A very high-fee fund will have an expense ratio of 1% or even higher, whereas a low-fee fund would have an expense ratio of a couple tenths of a percent or even below 0.1%.

Mix Investing with Insurance

A very expensive investing mistake is to mix investing with insurance though a whole life or universal life insurance policy. The selling point is that you build up money in an investment product as you pay your insurance premiums.

However, what you might not realize as you are being pitched such a product is that your premiums are several times or even an order of magnitude higher than they would be for the same amount of term life insurance, and the investment product doesn’t give you great returns, either.

It’s much less expensive to buy term life insurance (the same sort you have on your car – expiring after a set length of time) and invest the rest of the money you would have spent on the premium on your own. It’s very likely that you’ll end up with more money after decades of using that method.

After all, you don’t actually need life insurance for your whole life – just until you reach financial independence. And that day will come a lot faster if you don’t mix insurance with investing.

Basically, the only people who recommend mixing investing with insurance are those who sell that kind of product. Speaking of which…

Blindly Take the Recommendation of Someone Earning a Commission

I’ve met a few graduate students with no need for life insurance at all who own whole/universal life insurance policies. And it was easy for me to correctly guess why: a family or friend had started selling those products.

There are three types of financial advisers, differentiated by how they are paid.

With two of them, it’s transparent how they are paid. One type charges you straight up for their time and will help you create a financial plan. The other type charges you a percentage of your portfolio to manage your money for you. These two types are usually held to a fiduciary standard, which means they are ethically bound to give you the best financial advice for your situation.

The kind that will meet with you for free is likely to make their money through commissions on the products they sell you. They are not fiduciaries. That’s not to say that they will behave unethically, just that they are not required to be objective in their recommendations. They are permitted to pitch you the product that earns them the highest commission as long as it’s “suitable.” And that’s how a grad student with no need for life insurance ends up with a whole/universal life policy.

The caution against blindly taking the advice of someone earning a commission applies to more than just financial advisors. Affiliate advertising is incredibly widespread right now. You may learn about a product from a content creator (e.g., website, podcast) whom you respect. It’s quite likely that the person will earn money if you buy it through their link/promo code. (I used to be an affiliate myself for a few products through a prior website.) Again, earning a commission doesn’t necessarily mean the person is pushing a bad product or is behaving unethically, but you just have to recognize that it is a form of advertising and you should be a savvy consumer. It’s very difficult to claim to be completely objective when there is a commission in the line.

Graduate school is a financially challenging time even if you are fully funded. Your stipend isn’t intended to do much more than pay your basic living expenses. You are likely young and relatively inexperienced with managing money, especially for long-term goals. You’re short on time to learn about financial best practices, and you may even be suffering from analysis paralysis. Investing may be either the furthest thing from your mind or yet another item languishing on your “To Do” list.

I believe that if you fully understood the benefits of investing right now, you would be chomping at the bit to get started. If you have the means, investing for the long term is one of the best possible uses for your money during graduate school. Of course you should cover your basic living expenses and live a little, but you can simultaneously begin building your lifetime wealth. It’s worth starting to invest during graduate school even if you can only put away a small amount or a small percentage of your income. Your status as a graduate student is even an investing advantage in some ways!

Below are four reason why you should start investing for the long term during grad school.

The Time Value of Money

In investing, time matters a ton. There are three key components to increasing your wealth: how much money you invest, what you invest in (i.e., the return you get), and for how long you invest. The first and third are the most important, believe it or not, because they are the most under your control.

Compound interest, or the time value of money, is the magic element that makes investing so powerful. Well, it’s not magic, it’s math – exponential growth. Here’s how compound interest works: Assume that your invested money gives a modest return each year. In your first year, your money grows by that return. In your second year, your money grows again, plus you get growth on last year’s growth. In the third year, you get growth, growth on growth, and growth on growth on growth. This continues (on average) for the entire period you are invested. Growth on growth ad infinitum!

One of the most powerful actions you can take for your net worth is to get the compound interest clock ticking for you as early as possible. Say, for example, that you need to invest regularly over 40 years to fund your retirement. Would you rather start that clock right now or wait until you’re done with your training?

You might think that starting to invest during graduate school is a big sacrifice that won’t amount to much because you won’t be able to save nearly as much now as you will on your future Real Job salary. This is a dire misconception!

Let’s take Tom as an example graduate student. Tom receives a $30,000/year stipend and invests 10% of it every month throughout his five years in graduate school. Over those five years, he contributes $15,000. Given an 8% average annual rate of return (very reasonable for a long-term investment), at the end of graduate school Tom’s account balance has grown to $18,353.49. If we leave that sum of money alone to continue to compound at 8% (no additional contributions), the balance grows tremendously. After 40 years, it has become $398,720.79! That’s an extra $400,000 for Tom’s retirement that he wouldn’t have had if he hadn’t started investing during graduate school.

Ingraining Positive Saving Habits

Incorporating regular long-term investing into how you manage your money during graduate school creates a powerful habit. Not only are you experiencing the benefit of compounding interest on the money you invest during graduate school, but you have created a habit of investing that will carry forward throughout your whole life. In fact, by doing so you have changed your identity to that of an investor!

Investing during graduate school is a sacrifice, of course. But to be honest, it’s going to be a sacrifice at whatever point in your life you start to invest. People always think that it’s going to be easier to start saving later, when x, y, and z in their life has changed; this mindset is not unique to graduate students. Yes, in a few years you’ll have a Real Job’s salary, which will make saving easier, but perhaps you’ll also experience other life changes like having a family or want to pursue other financial goals like buying a home, which will add financial constraints.

If you start investing during the objectively difficult period of graduate school, you’ll always be able to say, “I was able to save during graduate school, so of course I can continue to save now.”

Tax Advantages

Another big argument in favor of starting to invest during grad school is the tax advantages. In this case, having a low income actually works in your favor! (And not because of the Saver’s Credit.)

Graduate students with taxable compensation are eligible to contribute to an individual retirement arrangement (IRA). An IRA is a wonderful vehicle for anyone with the goal of saving for retirement. The big upside to using an IRA (or 401(k), 403(b), etc.) is that your money won’t be taxed while it’s growing inside the IRA. If your money were invested outside the IRA, the yearly taxes would essentially erode your rate of return and lower your balances.

When you open an IRA, you have the option to make it a traditional IRA or a Roth IRA. With a traditional IRA, you take a tax deduction on the money you contribute and pay ordinary income tax on the IRA distributions in your retirement. With a Roth IRA, you pay your full tax on the money you contribute and the distributions are tax-free.

For the typical young graduate student in the 15% (or lower) marginal tax bracket who expects a much higher income post-graduation, a Roth IRA is a fantastic choice. You pay your 15% income tax on the money you contribute to your Roth IRA, and that money is never subject to income tax again! It’s a great idea to add to a Roth IRA when you’re in a low tax bracket like while in graduate school. If you do have a higher income after graduation and a higher marginal tax bracket, you’ll either pay a higher tax rate to contribute to a Roth IRA or switch to a traditional IRA. When you consider that some people contribute to Roth IRAs when they are in much higher tax brackets, a 15% tax rate seems like a deal!

Even if you do not have taxable compensation, your low tax bracket is still an advantage for long-term investments. If you are in the 15% tax bracket, you have 0% federal tax on long-term capital gains and qualified dividends. This means that investing outside an IRA is not such a terrible fate because of your low tax bracket as long as you use a tax-efficient investing strategy such as index fund investing.

Further Reading: Fellowship Recipients Can Save for Retirement Outside an IRA; How Fellowship Recipients Can Save for Retirement (video)

Post-Graduation Flexibility

If nothing else, having money increases your options. Exiting graduate school with savings and investments gives you more flexibility when it comes to financially motivated decisions like where to work and how to live. If you already have a nest egg compounding in your corner, you can consider the lower-paying job that fulfills your passion or the high cost-of-living city that you love. You are no longer hamstrung into maximizing your salary and minimizing your lifestyle so that you can compensate for the opportunity cost of your graduate training.

Further reading: What We Did in Graduate School to Enable Our Risky Career Decisions

I hope that considering all the benefits of investing has motivated you to start investing or increase your contributions during grad school! It’s amazing to graduate with not only a degree but also sure financial footing.

Congratulations on your fellowship! Winning a fellowship that pays your stipend during graduate school is a great honor and achievement. A fellowship stipend may even be larger than the base stipend provided by the department, giving you additional discretionary income. While you might have an enhanced ability to save for retirement in terms of your cash flow in comparison with your peers, unfortunately you may be excluded from using a tax-advantaged retirement account like an Individual Retirement Arrangement (IRA).

 

The advantage that an IRA offers is tax-free growth on your investments over the several decades until you are of retirement age. This allows compound interest to have its maximum effect of growing your investment balances exponentially, unburdened by the drag of paying tax on the growth and dividends. However, only “taxable compensation” can be contributed to an IRA. As fellowships are not reported on W-2s, they are not considered taxable compensation for this purpose. If your only income in a calendar year is fellowship income, contributing to an IRA is not an option during that year.

Save for Retirement Outside an IRA

While IRAs confer great benefits, they are not the only way to save for retirement. Instead of opening an IRA at a brokerage firm, you can open a normal taxable investment account. If you like, you can buy the same funds that you would have put inside your IRA. The important component is that you have designated that your investments are for retirement, not whether they have a tax-advantaged status tied to retirement. Your investments will be subject to the drag of taxes while in the investment account, but the burden can be made fairly light.

1) You can choose tax-efficient investments. Plenty of people have long-term investments in taxable investment accounts, so minimizing taxes is somewhat of a solved problem. Taxes on investments are not like income taxes when you have a job; they don’t occur every year like clockwork. Taxes only come into play in an investment account when there is a taxable event like selling an asset or receiving a dividend. Reducing the frequency of your taxable events reduces the frequency at which you have to pay tax. There are also two tax rates, and which one you fall into partially depends on how long you have held the investment (a longer holding period gives the lower rate). One of the best ways to minimize your tax burden is to employ a buy-and-hold strategy. The best investment strategy for graduate students (passive investing) is also a tax-efficient strategy, so you don’t have to sacrifice your returns or more of your time to minimize the tax burden in your taxable account.

2) Your low income tax bracket is currently an advantage when it comes to taxes on investments. The two investment tax rates that apply to capital gains are long-term capital gains (for investments held more than one year) and short-term capital gains. The two investment tax rates that apply to dividends are qualified dividends and non-qualified dividends. Short-term capital gains and non-qualified dividends are taxed at ordinary income levels, i.e., your marginal tax bracket. Long-term capital gains and qualified dividends are taxed at a lower rate. If you fall into the 15% marginal tax bracket or lower, as the majority of graduate students do, your federal long-term capital gains and qualified dividends tax rate is 0%. You may still have to pay state tax on your long-term capital gains and qualified dividends, but your federal tax rate is as low as it can get.

If you employ a buy-and-hold strategy, you can minimize your tax burden on your investments to the point that it is only slightly worse than it would have been inside an IRA (depending on your state tax).

How to Save for Retirement Outside of an IRA

The process for saving for retirement in a taxable brokerage account is very similar. You choose a brokerage firm, open an account (in this case, a taxable account, which is the default, instead of an IRA), and buy investments with a lump sum or ongoing contribution. If you want to make things easy on yourself, use the same brokerage firm and investments for your taxable account that you would have (or do) for your IRA. One of the advantages of saving for retirement outside of an IRA is that you are not subject to the $5,500 yearly contribution limit.

How to Transfer Your Investments into a Tax-Advantaged Vehicle

In a future year, you may have the opportunity or desire to shift the assets in your taxable brokerage firm into a tax-advantaged retirement account like an IRA, 401(k), or 403(b). While keeping your investments in a taxable brokerage account is not a bad short-term solution, over the long term it is more advantageous to keep them inside a tax-advantaged vehicle if possible, especially as you move up in tax brackets and start paying tax on your long-term capital gains and qualified dividends.

In each year that you are eligible to contribute to a tax-advantaged retirement account, determine how much money you would like to contribute from your income. Most people save a set amount or percentage from each paycheck to dollar-cost-average their investment purchases. If you have any contribution room left above this goal amount, sell that amount of your assets in your taxable account and increase your contribution to your tax-advantaged retirement account commensurately.

For example, perhaps later in graduate school you receive W-2 pay and plan to contribute 10% of your income to an IRA, which amounts to $2,500. In that year, you will have $3,000 of additional contribution room for a total of $5,500. At the beginning of the year, you can sell $3,000 of assets inside your taxable account and buy an additional $3,000 of assets inside your IRA. Then, set up an automatic withdrawal to contribute $2,500 over the course of the year.

As another example, perhaps you do not have access to a tax-advantaged retirement account until you start your first post-PhD job. If your salary is $80,000 and you plan to contribute 10% to your 401(k), you have $10,000 of contribution room remaining for your first year (for an $18,000 total contribution limit). You can maximize your contribution rate to your 401(k) and sell $10,000 of assets inside your taxable investment account to supplement your salary during your first year.

Having no taxable compensation in the course of a calendar year does not prevent you from saving for retirement. You can still save and invest in a taxable brokerage account. You will forgo the tax-advantaged status of an IRA, but that is not a big sacrifice when you are in a low tax bracket. Once you have excess contribution room in a tax-advantaged retirement account, you can ‘transfer’ some of your taxable assets into it. Don’t let the type of pay you receive dissuade you from working toward your long-term financial goals!

Further viewing: Webinar: Retirement Investing in a Taxable Investment Account

Are you saving for retirement outside of a tax-advantaged retirement account?