Personal Finance for PhDs

Live a financially balanced life - no Real Job required

Main navigation

investing

Investing Strategies to Grow Your Wealth During Your PhD Training

by Leave a Comment

The most important investment you make during graduate school or your postdoc is in your career. But alongside that primary objective, many PhDs also invest money during their training. By far the top challenge or impediment to investing during graduate school or a postdoc is the low pay, and only a fraction of trainees are financially able and ready to invest. However, investing even a small amount of money on a regular basis throughout graduate school and a postdoc can have an enormous impact on lifetime wealth. The even better news is that the process of investing itself is simpler and easier than you probably think.

investing strategies phd training

 

Many investors, both novice and experienced, fall into the trap of thinking that to maximize their investment outcomes, they should focus on choosing the best investments. In fact, there is no reliable way to pick winning investments. There are only three aspects of your investments that affect your investment outcome that you can control: your savings rate, your investment asset allocation, and the cost of your investments.

This article outlines how to grow your wealth during graduate school by optimizing those three factors and implementing a few other key strategies.

A version of this post was originally published on GradHacker.

Free 10,000+ Word Email Course on Investing for Early-Career PhDs

Pfforphds dranddr

Subscribe to our mailing list to receive the 7-day email course designed for graduate students, postdocs, and PhDs in their first Real Jobs.

We won't send you spam. Unsubscribe at any time. Powered by ConvertKit

Choose Passive Investments

Empirical studies have borne out time after time that passive investing is a more successful strategy than active investing after costs are factored in. Basically, what that means is that buying a set of investments that is representative of a market sector overall (e.g., the entire stock market) is more successful in the long term than trying to pick winners from that same sector. In trying to beat the market, both professional investors and individual investors consistently fail to even match it.

Passive investing is a far simpler strategy than active investing and much less time-consuming to initiate and maintain because there are plenty of high-quality passive investment products available. To enact a passive investing strategy, buy an index fund or an indexed exchange traded fund (ETF). For example, there are index funds and ETFs that reflect the entire stock market or the S&P 500, among numerous others.

The great bonus here is that passive investing is far more time-efficient than active investing. You don’t have to research individual investments to death; just buy them all!

Maximize Your Savings Rate

Instead of putting your time and energy into agonizing over your investment choices and trying to optimize them, direct it toward increasing your savings rate into your investments. You can free up more cash flow for your investments by decreasing your expenses or increasing your income.

As simple as that sounds, every grad student knows that both time and money are very tight during this phase of life. If you pursue increasing your income or decreasing your expenses, you must be very selective about how you do so. The following posts discuss both of these strategies in much more detail.

Decreasing your expenses:

Increasing your income:

Increase Your Income

Join the mailing list to receive our 7-part video series, "How to Increase Your Income as a Graduate Student," including side hustles and passive income.

We won't send you spam. Unsubscribe at any time. Powered by ConvertKit

Pick an Asset Allocation and Stick with It

Your asset allocation is the percentage of your investment that is in each asset class or sub-asset class. The three main asset classes are stocks, bonds, and cash. Your asset allocation should be chosen with respect to your investing goal. For a very long-term goal, such as retirement for someone in her 20s or 30s, a very aggressive asset allocation is appropriate, such as 80-100% stocks. If you are a DIY investor, your brokerage firm can help guide you to an appropriate asset allocation.

Your asset allocation should change as the timeline on your goal grows shorter, but not quickly or dramatically. A common pitfall that investors fall into is trying to time the market by changing their asset allocation, i.e., they pull money from stocks into bonds or cash when they anticipate a stock market drop and then try to find the right time to push it back in. While the theory of selling high and buying low is fine, it’s almost impossible to successfully time the market consistently, even for professionals. Instead, maintain your appropriate asset allocation and ride the market down and up.

Minimize Investing Costs

All investments have costs associated with owning and transacting them. You can think of those costs as directly coming out of your investment returns. Over the course of several decades of investing, these costs can reduce your balance in retirement by hundreds of thousands of dollars!

In fact, costs are one of the big reasons that active investment strategies fail to perform as well as passive investment strategies. While active strategies sometimes do generate higher top-line returns than passive strategies, their higher cost almost always knocks the real return experienced by the investor below than that of passive strategies.

With mutual funds, index funds, and ETFs, the cost of owning the investment is expressed very clearly in its expense ratio (a percentage). A low-cost ETF or index fund will have an expense ratio of a couple tenths of one percent or lower, while a high-cost, actively managed mutual fund will have an expense ratio of one percent or higher. For a passive strategy, look for funds with very low expense ratios.

Watch out as well for fees tacked on top of the expense ratio of the fund you purchased itself; these are often charged by the person or institution managing the account, such as a 401(k) administrator, a financial advisor, or a roboadvisor. Make sure that you have a compelling reason for paying such a fee before signing up for one, because it will come directly out of your returns.

Dollar Cost Average

The strategy of dollar cost averaging (as opposed to irregular lump sum investing) is to invest a set amount of money on a regular basis. If you receive a regular stipend/salary, this translates to investing the same amount of money every pay period, ideally through an automated transfer.

One of the big advantages of dollar cost averaging is that committing to the strategy prevents you from attempting to time the market. When you use your discretion over the timing of your investment schedule, many of us will try to guess whether the market is on an upswing or downswing and shift our buying behavior accordingly. This is rarely a successful strategy, whether it is done haphazardly or very deliberately.

In fact, dollar cost averaging actually guarantees that you “buy low and sell high” in a sense, although you are not selling. Because you invest the same dollar amount every period, when the market is low you buy more shares and when it is high you buy fewer shares.

Use a Roth IRA

If your investing goal is to save for retirement – likely the first investing goal you should set as it is the longest-term – it is a great idea to use a tax-advantaged retirement account. A tax-advantaged retirement account protects your investments from taxes over the decades between your contribution and withdrawal in retirement; paying tax year after year would otherwise eat away at your returns. Therefore, using a tax-advantaged retirement account maximizes your returns, as long as you abide by the restrictions on access that it imposes.

Only very rarely do graduate students have access to a tax-advantaged retirement account through their universities; therefore, an individual retirement arrangement (IRA) is their only option if they are eligible. Some postdocs receive retirement account benefits through their universities and some do not. IRAs are set up independently and managed entirely by the investor. This may sound like a big responsibility, but this freedom of choice means you can pick the optimal investments for you.

IRAs come in two varieties: traditional and Roth. Roth IRAs are generally recommended for current lower-earners with great income growth potential, so they are an excellent fit for graduate students and some postdocs!

Details on Emily's Roth IRA

Pfforphds dranddr

Receive a 700-word letter on which brokerage firm I use for my Roth IRA and what it's invested in.

We won't send you spam. Unsubscribe at any time. Powered by ConvertKit

Get Started ASAP

Probably the biggest investing mistake you can make is to procrastinate getting started. On average, the stock market ends two out of every three years higher than it started; if you’re ready to start investing but put it off, more times than not you miss out on earnings that could have gone into your coffer. I frequently speak with PhDs-in-training who stay stuck in investing analysis paralysis for years on end. You can always course correct if you realize you made a poor choice with your investments initially, but you can never recover lost time. So even if you aren’t confident you’re making the perfect investment, just get started!

My Experience with Investing During Graduate School

Investing is one of my favorite subjects on which to teach, write, and coach, and my enthusiasm for the subject is due to the thrilling experience I had with investing during my seven years of PhD training. Starting at $0 in 2007, my husband (also a grad student over the same period) and I together grew our retirement investment portfolio to approximately $75,000 by the time we defended in 2014. The success we experienced is largely attributable to our aggressive and increasing savings rate and the long bull market that started in 2009.

I had an inauspicious start with investing when I first opened and funded my Roth IRA. I didn’t actually purchase the investment I intended to when I opened my account, so my money was going into cash! The really embarrassing part of the story is that I didn’t catch my mistake for over a year. When I finally did, I moved my IRA from that first brokerage firm to one I preferred and made sure that all my money went into my investment of choice, a target date retirement fund.

Deciding that a target date retirement fund was right for me only took a couple hours of research, and as it’s a set-it-and-forget-it strategy I have spent zero time over the last decade-ish maintaining it (though I do regularly check the balance). Instead of spending my time and energy monkeying with my choice of investments, I used them to find ways to add more money to my investments.

When I first started contributing to my Roth IRA in 2007, I saved 10% of my gross income, which was $200/month. After we married and combined finances, my husband and I set a lofty goal to max out two Roth IRAs each year. We used frugal strategies to incrementally reduce our spending to free up more money for investing. (Our top five frugal strategies alone helped us reduce our yearly spending by approximately $6,000.) While we didn’t quite achieve our goal during grad school, we did end with a 17.5% retirement savings rate.

Investing is about far more than just numbers to me. Investing throughout graduate school has not only given my family financial security, but it enabled both my husband and I to pursue our post-PhD dream jobs, even though they are risky and less remunerative in the short term.

I want other early-career PhDs to experience a similar degree of financial freedom as soon as possible in their lives, which is why I am such a proponent of investing even during the incredibly financially challenging graduate and postdoc training periods. If you’d like to go even deeper into this subject matter, sign up for my free 7-day email course on investing for early-career PhDs.

Should a Graduate Student Save for Retirement in a Roth IRA?

by 1 Comment

For graduate students with sufficient stipends, investing during graduate school is a fantastic financial goal. Counterintuitively, the long-term goal of funding retirement should be the first or one of the first investing goals any individual has. An Individual Retirement Arrangement (IRA) may be an appropriate vehicle in which to invest during graduate school, when the vast majority of graduate students do not have access to a retirement account at their universities such as a 403(b) or 457. But not all graduate students are eligible to contribute to an IRA, and an IRA is only the best choice for certain investing goals. If a graduate student opens an IRA, she must choose either a Roth or a traditional version.

grad student Roth IRA

A version of this article originally appeared on GradHacker.

What is an IRA?

An IRA protects your investments from being taxed while they are growing. An IRA is not synonymous with certain investments, but rather is an envelope around whatever investments you have chosen. As the name implies, the IRA is intended to be used for retirement savings, and by protecting your investments from taxes over the decades, your investments will grow at their fastest possible rate. Due to the power of compound interest, not having to pay tax on the growth of your investments can make a significant positive impact on their value. Therefore, it is a very good idea to use tax-advantaged retirement accounts to the greatest extent of your ability.

In 2018, the contribution limit for people under the age of 50 is $5,500 per year or your amount of taxable compensation, whichever is lower. You can make contributions to your 2018 IRA until April 15, 2019.

Many brokerage firms require a certain minimum account size that may be too high for a grad student just starting out with saving. If that is the case for your preferred brokerage firm, you can save into a savings account or IRA at another brokerage firm (some waive account size minimums if you set up a monthly auto-transfer) and transfer the money when you reach the minimum.

Free Email Course: Investing for Early-Career PhDs

Sign up for the mailing list to receive the free 10,000+ word email course designed for graduate students, postdocs, and PhDs in their first Real Jobs.

We won't send you spam. Unsubscribe at any time. Powered by ConvertKit

Who can contribute to an IRA?

Only taxable compensation (previously known as earned income) can be contributed to an IRA. A graduate student’s stipend is taxable compensation if it is reported on a W-2 at tax time. If a grad student has only fellowship or training grant income during a calendar year (not reported on a W-2) and no outside income, he will not be able to contribute to an IRA for that year. Senators Elizabeth Warren and Mike Lee proposed the Graduate Student Saving Act of 2016, which would include fellowship stipends as taxable compensation for the purposes of IRA contributions, but it was not enacted.

If you are married to a person with taxable compensation, you can contribute to a spousal IRA, again subject to the limit of $5,500 or the amount of taxable compensation. There are income limits as well for IRAs, but they are much higher than grad student stipend levels.

If your stipend is not taxable compensation, you can still save for retirement, though it may not be inside an IRA.

Is a Roth or a traditional IRA better for a graduate student?

There are two versions of IRAs available: Roth and traditional. The first-pass difference between the two types of accounts is when you will pay income tax on the money inside it. While the money in your IRA grows tax-free, you do have to pay income tax either upon the contribution (Roth IRA) or withdrawal (traditional IRA).

Initially, when people decide between the Roth and traditional IRA, they compare the marginal tax rates the taxpayer will be in upon contribution vs. withdrawal. The idea is to opt to pay the tax when they are in the lower marginal tax bracket. You know your marginal tax bracket currently; for graduate students without outside income, it is usually the 15% tax bracket or lower. You do not know what your marginal tax bracket will be during your retirement, as both your income and the tax brackets themselves will change in the intervening decades. However, this educated guess applies to the majority of graduate students: You are currently in a relatively low tax bracket because you are in training and building your career. Later in your life, you expect to have a much higher income and be in a much higher tax bracket. If that assumption holds, the Roth IRA is the more appropriate choice. Virtually every graduate student I’ve spoken with about this has chosen to contribute to a Roth IRA during graduate school.

The Roth IRA has some additional flexibility that the traditional IRA does not that may be attractive for graduate students.

Details on Emily's Roth IRA

Sign up for the mailing list to receive a 700-word letter on which brokerage firm I use for my Roth IRA and what it's invested in.

We won't send you spam. Unsubscribe at any time. Powered by ConvertKit

What are the pros and cons of using a Roth IRA?

As graduate students usually lack access to other tax-advantaged retirement account options, the best practice is to only contribute money to a Roth IRA that you intend to invest for retirement. This is in line with the government’s purpose in creating IRAs. The main con of using any tax-advantaged retirement account is that accessing the funds earlier may trigger an income tax payment and a 10% penalty. However, the Roth IRA is unusually flexible.

As you have already paid income tax on the contributions to your Roth IRA, you can remove them at any time without additional tax or penalty. Five years after opening a Roth IRA, a first-time home buyer can remove up to $10,000 without incurring a penalty.

Because of the Roth IRA’s flexibility, some people use it “off-label” as a general savings vehicle. Others may make contributions even if they are not 100% sure they will preserve the money for retirement. Just be sure to match your investment strategy with your intended use for the money; the type of investments you choose for long-term money should be different than those for mid- or short-term money.

Of course, saving for retirement is not an appropriate goal for every graduate student. If you are currently taking on debt (student loans, personal loans, credit cards), your first priority should be to minimize that debt acquisition or even start to repay it. If you can keep your head above water with your stipend but don’t have any kind of cash savings for emergencies or short-term expenses, saving those funds should be your goal, not investing (yet). Even graduate students whose stipends allow for saving may not want to start investing for the long term if they have other financial priorities and their values don’t align with early wealth-building.

If you are a graduate student with a livable stipend who values financial security or independence, using a Roth IRA for your retirement savings is a wonderful choice. If you don’t have taxable compensation, you can still save for retirement in another vehicle. If you aren’t sure what financial goal you are saving for, using a Roth IRA is an option but saving in a taxable account is almost as beneficial and prevents the different purposes from becoming confused.

Did you save for retirement during graduate school? If so, did you use a Roth IRA?

Our $100,000+ Net Worth Increase During Graduate School

by 1 Comment

I share my personal money story, which is how my husband and I increased our net worth by over $100,000 while we were in graduate school. We carefully budgeted our two PhD student stipends to consistently add money to our investments and pay for both our regular monthly expenses and irregular expenses such as travel. Over our seven years as graduate students, we accumulated approximately $75,000 in retirement savings, $20,000 in cash, and enough money to pay off my student loans plus an additional $5,000. I detail the five strategies we used that made the largest positive impact on our cash flow, which enabled us to increase our savings percentage over time.

Subscribe on iTunes!

Links Mentioned in the Show

Would you like to be a guest on season 2 of the podcast? Please fill out this survey!

100k during PhD

Timestamped Show Notes

0:00 Introduction and Outline

1:45 Background Information and Income

When we graduated from Harvey Mudd College, I had $17k in student loan debt and no savings, and Kyle had zero student loan debt and approximately $5,000 in savings. Kyle went straight into a PhD program at Duke University in Computational Biology and Bioinformatics. I spent one year in the National Institutes of Health’s postbac program before starting a PhD program at Duke University in Biomedical Engineering.

Our $100k+ increase in combined net worth occurred between 2007 and 2014 when we earned two graduate student stipends. My NIH stipend was $24k/year, and my Duke stipend went from $24k/year when I started to $28k/year when I finished. Kyle’s Duke stipend went from $25k/year when he started to $29k/year when he finished.

In the first three years, Kyle and I were dating and kept separate finances. We got married in 2010, so for the last four years of the seven-year period we kept joint finances.

4:00 How We Increased Our Net Worth

  1. Saving and investing consistently throughout the whole period.
  2. Budgeting intensively to keep a lid on expenses and funnel more money into savings.
  3. Investment growth due to the bull stock market that started in 2009.

Join Our Phinancially Distinct Community

Pfforphds dranddr

Receive 1-2 emails per week to help you take the next step with your finances.

We won't send you spam. Unsubscribe at any time. Powered by ConvertKit

4:51 High-Level Strategies to Increase Net Worth

  1. Our programs paid us above the local living wage, and Durham, NC is also a medium cost-of-living city.
  2. We identified our values, which included financial security and family/community. This meant that saving, including for retirement, was a top priority, as well as travel to visit family and friends. We reduced our spending on everyday expenses so that we could funnel more money to our top priorities.
  3. We employed percentage-based budgeting. Right off the top, we paid our taxes, tithed (10% of gross income to our church), and saved for retirement and near-term expenses.
  4. Any extra income we received, such as gifts, side income, and credit card rewards, went toward our financial goals instead of general spending.

7:38 Net Worth Breakdown

8:07 IRAs ($0 to $75k)

I started saving 10% of my gross income into my Roth IRA as soon as I started receiving a stipend and maintained that savings rate for 3 years. Kyle didn’t intentionally start saving right away, but allowed money to build up in his checking account. In 2009, he opened and maxed out a Roth IRA in 2009, and maxed out a Roth IRA every year following.

Further Reading: My Biggest Financial Mistake and Why I’m Glad I Made It

Once we got married, we made a game of trying to max out two Roth IRAs each year. We never quite achieved our goal, but we did increase our savings rate from 10 to 17%.

What exactly we were invested in doesn’t matter as much as our savings rate, though I am happy to share my investment choice.

Details on Emily's Roth IRA

Sign up for the mailing list to receive a 700-word letter on which brokerage firm I use for my Roth IRA and what it's invested in.

We won't send you spam. Unsubscribe at any time. Powered by ConvertKit

12:11 Cash Savings ($5k to $20k)

Initially, I didn’t focus on cash savings. In 2007, I paid off a $1k unsubsidized student loan. When I started grad school, I bought a car with a $3,500 car loan. Later that fall, my parents gave me $10,000, which I used as a general savings account/emergency fund. I paid off my car loan, then repaid my “car payment” to myself to rebuild my savings. Kyle naturally lived below his means, and he continued to accumulate savings in his checking account.

The year we got married, 2010, was a financial reset point. From our cash savings, we paid approximately $10k in wedding expenses. When we joined finances, we assessed our combined balance sheet.

We each had money in our IRAs, and we also had $17k in cash. We set $16k aside to pay off my student loan balance and set up a $1k emergency fund. However, that left us with no savings for near-term expenses, just whatever we could cash flow.

We built up $20k in savings between 2010 and 2014 using targeted savings accounts. We were inspired to start using targeted savings accounts by several large irregular expenses that hit right around the same time and were difficult to cash flow: an expensive wedding season, two university parking permits, and season tickets to the Duke men’s basketball games and Broadway theater series.

Further Reading:

We decided to start preparing in advance for anticipated expenses over the next year. We started out with savings accounts for Cars, Entertainment, Travel. We set up budget for each account by anticipating when we would need or want to spend money and calculating a savings rate. Targeted savings accounts turn large, irregular expenses into small, fixed expenses that are easy to write into a budget.

By 2014, we had more savings accounts: Travel, Cars, Entertainment, Appearance, Electronics, Medical, Charitable Giving, CSA, Taxes, and Camera in addition to our checking and emergency fund accounts. We used Ally Bank, which did not charge us any fees or require minimum balances, etc.

We set up automatic savings rates into the targeted savings accounts, then manually pulled money back for each expense when it occurred.

We built up the savings in these accounts because we over-estimated what we would need in various areas, which caused us to over-save.

Join the Mailing List to Receive Your Free Targeted Savings Worksheet

The one-page worksheet guides you in brainstorming and categorizing your irregular expenses, including three questions to ask yourself and a list of common irregular expense categories.

We won't send you spam. Unsubscribe at any time. Powered by ConvertKit

20:43 Student Loan Payoff Money ($0k to $16k in cash savings, then $16k to $21k in investments)

By 2010, we had the money to pay off $16k in student loans. Instead of paying it off, we chose to conservatively invest they money to earn a small return. It was difficult to choose how to invest the mid-term money, and we wanted to be conservative so as not to lose it.

We decided to conduct an experiment on ourselves to find out what kind of investors we were. In 2011, we put a large fraction of the money in a CD, a small fraction in aggressive stock mutual funds, and a large fraction in conservative mutual funds (stocks and bonds).

We learned that we are committed to passive investing.

Further reading:

23:57 Our Best (Pain-Free) Money-Saving Moves

I started blogging at Evolving Personal Finance in 2011; learned a ton from my fellow personal finance bloggers and developed my own ideas about how I should manage my money. I published a post near the end of grad school on the best things we did to increase our available cash flow for saving and investing. This list largely explains how we increased our retirement savings rate from 10% to 17% savings and built up $20k in cash savings.

25:24 1. Moved to decrease rent twice (savings $2,340/year).

Initially, we lived in a great apartment, but one year the rent jumped up so we moved to a townhouse, decreasing our rent by $110/mo (what it would have increased to over the new rent). The next year, we moved again and decreased our rent by an additional $25/mo (previous year’s rent to new rent).

Through those two moves, we maintained our home size (1,200 sq. ft., 2 BR, 2+ BA). With the latter two townhouses, we actually reduced our commute to Duke, so the saving was even deeper than just the rent decrease. We did give up some amenities we had through the apartment complex, but that was acceptable.

Further Reading:

27:48 2. Cancelled cable TV (Savings: $1,208.16/year)

We cancelled our cable TV in favor of paying for internet only. We bought an antenna so we could still watch broadcast TV.

Further reading: How to Cancel Cable When You’re Addicted to a Show

28:47 3. Signed up for rewards credit cards (Income: $991.18/year)

We signed up for cash back rewards credit cards, both for good ongoing rewards and good sign-up bonuses. We looked for minimum spends that we could actually meet and timed application so that we could put our large irregular expenses on the new cards to help meet the minimum spend.

Further reading: Perfect Use of a Credit Card

30:00 4. Became a One-Car Family (Savings: $972.03/year)

After we got married, we started commuting to Duke together. Around that time, my car needed some expensive repairs, so we stopped using it. Our reduced expenses came from lower car insurance, dropping one parking permit, less gas used, half as much maintenance required, and less need to keep money on hand for repairs. We had to work out our schedules to be able to share the car and ended up spending a lot more time together, which was wonderful!

Further Reading: The Financial Implications of Dropping One Car

32:19 5. Switched to an MVNO (Savings: $544.34/year)

I started using Republic Wireless, paying approximately $25/mo for service. (Kyle has since switched to Google’s Project Fi.)

The best thing about these pain-free money-saving moves is that they don’t require any ongoing effort/willpower. Typically, we just had to carry out one-time decisions.

34:41 How Our Accomplishment Led into PF for PhDs

I had been blogging about personal finance for 3.5 years by the time finished grad school, and I also volunteered with Personal Finance @ Duke. After I defended, I decided to give my own seminar on personal finance for graduate students. I had the best time making and delivering the seminar and answering questions from my peers. I asked myself, how can I teach my peers about personal finance as my job?

The initial phase of my business was as public speaker; I gave seminars at universities all over the country. That first seminar I created is now titled “The Graduate Student’s Guide to Personal Finance,” and I have others on taxes, investing, budgeting, and starting grad school on the right financial foot. If you’d like to (figure out how to) bring me to your university for a seminar or workshop, please email me at emily at PFforPhDs.com.

In addition to speaking, I’ve added other aspects of my business, ebooks and online courses. I have two new initiatives launching later this year, an investing webinar series and a membership community.

38:31 Conclusion

Start Investing During Graduate School

by 2 Comments

During graduate school, you’re heavily investing in yourself and your career. You’re sacrificing significant income potential to receive super-advanced training in your field. You’re probably anticipating a large income jump upon exiting grad school. Why should you even try to make your stipend income work for you? Is it possible or feasible to start investing while you’re so consumed by graduate school?

start investing

A version of this article originally appeared on GradHacker.

Free Email Course: Investing for Early-Career PhDs

Sign up for the mailing list to receive the free 10,000+ word email course designed for graduate students, postdocs, and PhDs in their first Real Jobs.

We won't send you spam. Unsubscribe at any time. Powered by ConvertKit

The Power of Compound Interest

Einstein declared that compound interest is the most powerful force in the universe. Just kidding – that’s an oft-misattributed quote. But compound interest is amazingly powerful: When you invest money and achieve a rate of return consistently over time, your money experiences exponential growth. The growth in your account balance itself is what grows with time.

Let’s look at a toy example of the power of compound interest (in reality, you would never receive a high rate of return on a consistent basis, but rather it would fluctuate):

You make a one-time investment of $5,500 (no ongoing contribution). Below is a table of your account balance at different points in time, given different rates of return.

compound_interest_table

Now imagine how your earnings would layer and multiply as you consistently invest year after year throughout your career! Given enough time and a reasonable average rate of return, even a modest amount of yearly savings can turn into millions of dollars.

Compound interest works for you in the case of investing (if irregularly), but it works against you in the cases of inflation. The long-term average rate of inflation in the US is a little above 3%. That means that you must invest your money to get a rate of return of at least 3-4% to just maintain its purchasing power!

The principle behind the power of compound interest teaches us that the more time given to the process the better it works for you. Graduate school is a wonderful time to start investing for the long term, if you haven’t already. You won’t be able to save much money, at least not in comparison with how much you might after graduating, but the extra few years of compounding will work their magic and over the decades that small amount of money will grow into a staggering sum.

Passive Investing Is Maximally Time-Efficient

Many graduate students are intimidated by the prospect of investing. They suffer from analysis paralysis at several different steps and end up doing nothing, even if they have the capital available. My goal is to dispel the misconception that investing has to be difficult or time-consuming. Certainly if you want to make a hobby of investing you can spend a considerable amount of time on it, but that’s absolutely not required. The average graduate student can invest quite successfully while spending only a few hours to set up the investment and a few minutes over the course of a year checking up on it.

The approach to investing that is most successful and time-efficient is called passive investing. When you passively invest, you strive to get the same returns in your personal account as some sector(s) of the market. You are not looking to beat the market, but rather match it. This is in contrast to active investing, which involves picking individual investments and timing the buying and selling to try to beat the market average. When these two approaches have been compared head to head, the passive investing strategy beats out the active strategy 80% of the time. Plus, it’s simpler, easier, and cheaper.

Free Email Course: Investing for Early-Career PhDs

Sign up for the mailing list to receive the free 10,000+ word email course designed for graduate students, postdocs, and PhDs in their first Real Jobs.

We won't send you spam. Unsubscribe at any time. Powered by ConvertKit

To passively invest, you simply choose to put your money into index funds. Index funds replicate a market sector. For instance, the S&P 500 index fund replicates large-capitalization stocks by holding the largest 500 companies traded on the US stock exchanges. Depending on your investing goals, you could buy an index fund that represents the entire US stock market or bond market – or their international counterparts – or a mix of several index funds. Then, once you have invested, you stay invested for the long term – no jumping in and out. (You can often find an Exchange Traded Fund version of your preferred index fund, which is usually offered at an even lower cost.)

Because the passive investing strategy is a buy and hold strategy, the significant time investment is up front to research and choose your index fund(s). This can be done in as little as a few minutes or as much as tens of hours, depending on how thoroughly you want to understand the investment. Once you have made your choice, you can just glance at the account balance a few times per year to make sure it’s in line with your expectations (given how the market is behaving).

How to Get Started Investing

If you are investing for retirement, your first decision is whether you can or should use a tax-advantaged retirement account, such as an individual retirement arrangement (IRA). (You must have taxable compensation to contribute to an IRA.) It’s very rare, though not totally unheard of, for graduate students to have access to a workplace-based retirement account, such as a 403(b). If you are opening an IRA, you will have to choose between a Roth and a traditional version.

Your next decision is where to open your investment account (IRA or taxable). Most DIY investors would do well to choose a brokerage firm. Vanguard, Fidelity, and Charles Schwab are all excellent, though not the only, options for low-cost index funds. With a brokerage firm, you will have a wide selection of investment options available to you (unlike at most banks). You can open and fund such an account completely online.

The next step is actually choosing your index funds, which is the one where you might spend the most time. Brokerage firms often offer similar index funds to one another, as they are all trying to replicate the same market sectors, though there may be subtle differences in the holdings or the cost. These brokerage firms usually offer tools and quizzes to help you identify the right investment for your time frame and risk tolerance.

If you don’t know where to start your research, check out target date retirement funds. They assume a risk tolerance for you based on your projected retirement year (e.g., 2055), and then invest in a small number of index funds to create an appropriate asset allocation. This type of fund handles all the necessary rebalancing among the index funds, so it is a totally hands-off investing strategy. For this reason, it is great for a graduate student who wants a set-it-and-forget-it investment strategy.

The biggest barrier to investing for a graduate student should be freeing up the money to put toward it rather than intimidation or analysis paralysis. Passive investing is totally compatible with the existing demands on a graduate student’s time and energy. For ideas on how to reduce your expenses and increase your income so that you have more money available for investing, see:

Join the Mailing List to Download Frugal Tips for PhDs-in-Training

Frugalmonth pfforphds image

The download includes 30+ frugal tips for PhDs-in-Training with links to video and additional written content.

You'll receive 1-2 emails per week to help you make the most of your money during your PhD training.

We won't send you spam. Unsubscribe at any time. Powered by ConvertKit

If you have already started investing, are you using a passive strategy? Have you suffered from analysis paralysis with respect to investing? How are you harnessing the power of compound interest?

How to Prioritize Financial Goals When You Can’t Do It All

by Leave a Comment

As graduate students, we can be overwhelmed easily by everything our stipends are ‘supposed to’ accomplish for us. If you read any personal finance material (including mine!), you will see that your income should go toward saving for retirement, paying off your debt, saving an emergency fund, saving for your short-term goals… oh, and feeding, clothing, and housing you, too! It can seem impossible to make any financial progress when faced with all these demands. Instead of trying to do everything at once, prioritize the various financial goals you might set based on both the math behind them and your personal disposition toward saving, investing, and debt.

prioritize financial goals

A version of this post originally appeared on GradHacker.

In my opinion the first two goals you should accomplish with your stipend are obvious, and after that you’ll have leeway to choose among competing valid goals.

Goal 1: Pay for Your Basics

The primary purpose your stipend should serve each month is to pay for the basic expenses in your life, such as housing, utilities, food, and transportation. If that’s all your stipend can manage, it has served its purpose: providing you with enough money that you can fully devote yourself to your studies. Increasing your short- and long-term financial security will have to wait until after graduation.

However, keep in mind that it’s very possible for these basic expenses to inflate from “need” into “want” territory. “Want” aspects of these basic expenses include living alone, housing amenities (access to pool, gym, social spaces), a car/a car that’s worth a significant fraction of your yearly income, eating out, bar tabs, etc. That’s not to say that you shouldn’t spend money on those above-basic aspects of these expenses, but just be aware that you can’t justify that portion of the spending as “needs.” It’s easy for your large, fixed expenses such as housing and transportation to get away from you, so spending your stipend on the “want” aspects of your basics should be weighed against using it for your other possible financial goals (more on that later).

Goal 2: Save an Emergency Fund

Everyone should have an emergency fund, even if it’s small. An emergency fund is cash reserved only for emergencies. It’s basically money that will prevent you from going into debt when something unexpected happens. A full emergency fund is on the order of 3-6 months of expenses, but that shouldn’t necessarily be your first goal. A small emergency fund of $1,000 is a great start when you have other pressing financial goals, such as debt repayment. It’s not prudent to delay repaying high-interest-rate debt to save a larger emergency fund the purpose of which is to prevent you from going into high-interest-rate debt.

Start with a $1,000 emergency fund as your second financial goal, but after that let the math of your other choices and your gut help you decide whether to keep building the emergency fund or move on to another goal.

Accumulating Cash vs. Growing Wealth Mid/Long-Term

Cash savings has great utility. If your expenses are quite uncertain over the next year (such as when you near graduation), it makes sense to save up to be able to pay for the most costly scenario in cash. It’s also a good idea to keep cash on hand for irregular expenses, such as in a system of targeted savings accounts. As just discussed, a larger emergency fund can bring great peace of mind to certain people.

But you should limit your cash savings to the amount that you may well need in the short term (1-2 years plus any mid-term goal expenses like a house down payment or wedding). To increase your net worth in the long term and ultimately become financially independent, you need to invest for the long-term and pay off debt. As soon as you have sufficient cash on hand (by your estimation), you should start investing or paying off debt, but deciding when you have enough cash is largely about your comfort level.

It’s also fine to simultaneously invest/pay down debt and save additional cash, as long as you can accept that your progress toward each goal will be slower. For example, if you decide to save 20 percent of your income, 10 percent can go toward investing/debt repayment and 10 percent can go toward cash savings.

Investing vs. Debt Repayment

The earlier you get compound interest working in your favor, the better. You can accomplish that by investing or paying off debt. Deciding between investing and debt repayment is again a balance of math and personal disposition.

First, do the math. Put numbers on your various possible investing and debt repayment goals. Your debt repayment “rate of return” is the interest rate of the debt in question. The long-term average rate of return on your investments is estimated from your asset allocation. For example, a grad student invested 100 percent in large-capitalization US stocks could anticipate a 9-10 percent long-term average rate of return (before adjusting for inflation). Other asset allocations will have different expected long-term average rates of return. Mid-term investments should be more conservative, with a lower expected average rate of return but more muted peaks and valleys.

Compare your investing and debt repayment expected rates of return, giving a handicap to the debt repayment side of the equation because there is no risk associated with debt repayment as there is with investing. Given a certain expected rate of return for your investments, the math would argue that debt below a certain interest rate will be a lower priority. For example, if you expect an 8 percent long-term average rate of return on investing, any debt below about 5 or 6 percent might become low-priority.

Second, evaluate your personal disposition. If you feel passionate about one type of goal over another, that should have some influence on your decision. I believe that your passion for a financial goal positively correlates with the amount of effort (i.e., money) you will put toward achieving it. For example, if you hate your debt, you should pay it off, even if the math favors investing. If you are very excited to start investing, perhaps you could reduce the debt repayment handicap in your math to only 1 percent. Just don’t justify keeping high-interest-rate credit card debt because you want to start investing!

The one caveat I’ll make to allowing your personal disposition to hold sway over the math is for a very risk-averse person: you will have to start investing eventually, even conservatively, if you want to reach financial independence. You will automatically pay your installment debt off in time even if you just make the minimum payments, whereas there is no mechanism to force you to start investing. So it is acceptable to prioritize (non-mortgage) debt repayment over investing, but when you’re done paying the debt, be sure that you hold yourself accountable to take the next step to start investing.

Know that More Goals Means Slower Progress

The more financial goals or purposes for your money that you have, the slower your progress will be toward each of them. If you feel strongly about working on multiple goals at once, accept this knowing that you are making some progress in all the areas that are important to you. But if you are frustrated by slow progress to the point that you end up not devoting money to any goals, working on one or a small number of goals at a time is a better fit for you. In this case, set concrete dollar-amount goals that you can achieve within months or a small number of years and work toward them intensely. For example, set $4,000 as your goal emergency fund size, but once you achieve it, move on to something else. Paying off one debt entirely could be another concrete goal.

Living Your Life

Since our income is limited (unless we have a side income), any money that you put toward the above types of financial goals is money that won’t be used for your everyday comforts and living expenses. By no means do I suggest that you suffer through a Spartan lifestyle while you put every penny possible toward your long-term future. Everything must be in balance for you. A guideline like the Balanced Money Formula may help you work through what percentage of your income to use today and what percentage to put away for tomorrow.

My Choices During Grad School

When I was in grad school, the financial goal that most excited me was investing. Therefore, after ensuring that I could live within my means and establishing a $1,000 emergency fund, I started investing 10 percent of my gross income into my Roth IRA. Over time, I built up cash savings in my targeted savings accounts and also increased the fraction of my income that I saved for retirement. To devote more money to these goals, I reduced my living expenses by developing frugal practices. Paying off my remaining student loans was my lowest priority as they were subsidized during deferment. I’m happy with these choices given my personal disposition (not risk-averse), but if I were to do it over again I would have beefed up my emergency fund earlier, delaying increasing my investing percentage for a short time.

How to Start Investing with Just Five Dollars per Month

by Leave a Comment

In the last several years, we’ve seen an explosion of “fintech,” aka financial technology. One of those new areas is “microinvesting;” there’s never been a better time to be a beginning investor with only a small amount of cash flow available to invest. No longer must you have thousands of dollars to open an investment account or millions of dollars to receive professional investment advice. While of course it is preferable to invest a large amount of money each month for your retirement or other investing goals, sometimes that’s simply not possible. Often it’s not possible for graduate students and postdocs, yet these groups are just as intensely interested in investing as anyone else – more so, I’d wager. This post details how to start investing with just five dollars per month (or whatever amount of money you can spare right now).

invest just five dollars per month

Free Email Course: Investing for Early-Career PhDs

Sign up for the mailing list to receive the free 10,000+ word email course designed for graduate students, postdocs, and PhDs in their first Real Jobs.

We won't send you spam. Unsubscribe at any time. Powered by ConvertKit

Why It’s Beneficial to Invest Just Five Dollars per Month

Thanks to the power of compound interest, a small amount of money given a long amount of time can turn into a large amount of money. That means that any amount of money you can put away when you are younger is going to make a significant difference to your wealth in retirement. It’s much, much, much better to invest $5/month than $0/month when you have decades to let it grow.

Now, you’re not going to fund your entire retirement with just a few dollars per month. But starting small is perfectly acceptable when your income is suppressed during your PhD training or you are otherwise in a financially challenging circumstance. Get started now with whatever amount you can, and increase your savings rate when your income increases and/or expenses decrease.

For example, if you contributed $5/month to an investment account over 5 years and received an 8% average annual rate of return, you’d end that time period with $367. Leave that $367 invested with an 8% rate of return for 50 years, and your ending balance is just shy of $20,000. I won’t sugar-coat it: That amount of money isn’t going to get you too far in your old age. But it is $20k better than taking no action.

Further reading:

In addition to the money itself, I see two compelling reasons to start investing even with only five dollars per month:

1) Committing to an investment plan creates a habit and changes your self-identity. If you invest five dollars per month, you become an “investor.” It’s part of who you are. The positive financial habit of committing to a monthly savings rate is a very powerful one to cultivate early on in life.

2) Once you get started, it’s easy to increase. The biggest hurdle is going from investing $0/month to $5/month, not from $5/month to $100/month. If you self-identify as an investor, you are naturally going to look for ways to increase your rate of investment. When you complete your training and move into a better-paid position, you will be ready and raring to save more each month, and you’ll already have the infrastructure in place. You’ll only be a few clicks away from investing serious money each month instead of having to wrestle with all the decisions and setting everything up at the same time that you’re dealing with a job transition.

Why It’s Challenging to Invest Just Five Dollars per Month

Until a few years ago, the only way to invest a small amount of money each month and be well-diversified was to use a mutual fund. Unfortunately, to open a brokerage account in which you could buy mutual funds usually took at least $1,000 if not several thousand dollars. Even the brokerage firms that waived their minimum balances usually required an ongoing investment commitment on the order of $50 or $100/month. That barrier can seem prohibitively high to some people; instead of saving up cash for months or years to meet the minimum balance, I imagine many people gave up on the idea of investing.

Further reading: Brokerage and IRA Account Minimums

Now, however, several investing platforms use fractional ETF shares to solve this issue. The platform buys whole shares of ETFs but sells fractions to its users. In this way, a user can purchase one or more ETFs in whatever increments she likes, and there is often no minimum balance required to open the account.

(I have only included in my list below microinvesting platforms that use ETFs. Robinhood is another investing platform that I ran across many times while researching this article because it is a fee-free platform. However, it is designed for investing in individual stocks. You have to invest a lot of money to create a diversified stock portfolio through buying individual stocks. You can buy ETFs through Robinhood but not fractional shares, so that is not compatible with investing just $5 per month. I’ve decided to exclude Robinhood from my list below because it inherently encourages active investing. Of course, if that’s your preferred investing strategy and/or you have a larger amount of money to invest, Robinhood is well worth considering.)

Free Email Course: Investing for Early-Career PhDs

Sign up for the mailing list to receive the free 10,000+ word email course designed for graduate students, postdocs, and PhDs in their first Real Jobs.

We won't send you spam. Unsubscribe at any time. Powered by ConvertKit

The Best Platforms For Investing Just Five Dollars per Month

I reviewed a number of fintech microinvesting platforms for this article, though I do not claim that it is comprehensive. I am not a customer/don’t have a relationship with any of these platforms, so I’ve drawn this information from the company websites and reviews rather than personal experience or communications.

Acorns

Acorns is probably the best-known microinvesting platform. Its concept is to round up each of your purchases to the next whole dollar and invest the change. You can also set up a recurring investment.

Fee structure: $1/month for under $5,000 (free for students for 4 years) + ETF expense ratios
IRA option: Coming “early 2018”
Portfolio creation: Suggests a portfolio of ETFs after receiving user input

WiseBanyan

WiseBanyan calls itself the “first free financial advisor.” (They earn money through upselling products and services to their clients.) The service asks you a few questions and uses Modern Portfolio Theory to construct a passive portfolio appropriate for you.

Fee structure: Only the expense ratios of the underlying funds
IRA option: Yes
Portfolio creation: Uses low-fee index ETFs according to Modern Portfolio Theory after you input data for its investor profile

Stash

Stash allows the user to choose among low-cost ETFs to create her own portfolio. The expense ratios on the ETFs are low, and Stash can recommend certain “themed” combinations of ETFs.

Fee structure: $1/month + ETF expense ratios
IRA option: In beta ($2/mo)
Portfolio creation: The user creates his own portfolio from among 40 pre-selected ETFs

Clink

Clink bills itself as more a savings app than an investing app. There is no minimum investment, but if you want to use the scheduler the minimum is $1/day. Clink invests your money in Vanguard ETFs according to Modern Portfolio Theory (a passive strategy).

Fee structure: $1/mo when balance is under $5,000 + ETF expense ratios
IRA option: No
Portfolio creation: Combines your risk tolerance with Modern Portfolio Theory to create an asset allocation of six Vanguard ETFs

In addition to these companies that are explicitly designed for microinvesting, you could also consider other brokerage firms that have wider array of financial services that includes microinvesting. For example, Betterment is a roboadvisor and has no account size minimums. If you do have a lump sum available to invest, though only $5 per month on an ongoing basis to contribute, you could consider other traditional low-cost brokerage firms like Vanguard, Fidelity, or Charles Schwab (and look around for one that will waive its minimum).

What Are the Downsides to Using a Microinvesting Platform?

The microinvesting platforms I listed above are providing a great service to a previously underserved population, and they are to be commended for that. But in order to make it possible, they have engaged in several trade-offs that wouldn’t be necessary with larger investment balances.

1) The Investment Choices Are Severely Limited

The platforms diversify your money into ETFs, but they offer only a small number of ETFs, and I suspect only a few ultimate combinations of those ETFs depending on the user’s input. This is not necessarily a bad thing. If you simply want a generally appropriate asset allocation and are not too concerned with the exact underlying funds used or the exact percentages, having those limited choices might even be advantageous. But if you want to design your own asset allocation or choose among the other thousands of funds possible, you probably won’t be too happy with these platforms.

2) The Fees Are Sky-High

There are two types of fees typically associated with owning investments. The first is due to the cost owning and transacting the investments themselves. When we are talking about an ETF, this fee is called the expense ratio and is expressed as a percentage of your investment balance. Each of the four platforms above have this fee, and it is typically quite low, approximately 0.1%. If you ever see an expense ratio that is around 1%, this is considered high and a red flag that the fund is actively managed.

The second type of fee is for administering the plan or platform itself. For reference, a full-service fee-only human financial advisor charges approximately 1%.

Three of the microinvesting platforms in my list above charge at least a $1 per month fee of the second kind. That doesn’t sound like a lot of money in absolute terms, but the whole reason we’re talking about microinvesting is because small amounts of money are worth paying attention to. If you are investing just five dollars per month, a one dollar per month fee is a staggering 20% of your savings rate. This kind of fee absolutely cripples your investing efforts. I would not be at all surprised if you lost money overall almost every year if you were investing just five dollars per month because the long-term average annual return of the stock market is approximately 10%.

Of course, you can mitigate this problem by using WiseBanyan or another platform that doesn’t charge a fee (e.g., if you are a student and can have the fee waived) or by investing more money each month.

3) They May Not Offer an IRA

Only one of the above platforms currently offers an IRA investing option to all its users. While it is great to invest outside of an IRA, if you are saving for retirement using an IRA is optimal. Plus, your IRA contribution room disappears every year. If you use a microinvesting platform for a few years as a means to save enough to open an IRA with a larger lump sum, keep in mind that your contribution room disappears with each year. It would be better to contribute to an IRA all along instead of doing it in one lump sum at the end because it would use up so much of your contribution room in the last year.

Further reading:

4) You May Develop a Sense of Complacency

I’m trying to thread a needle here: I want to encourage you to invest any small amount of money you can right now while emphasizing that to reach financial independence or retire someday $5 per month is not nearly a high enough investing rate long-term.

If investing just five dollars per month is truly all you can do right now, go for it. But do not allow yourself to think you can keep your savings rate that low when your financial circumstances change. I want you to jump that rate up by about two orders of magnitude as soon as you are able!

Doing something is better than doing nothing, but over time you must move from doing something to doing the best thing or the sufficient thing.

Further listening: Ask Dave: Micro-Investing Apps?

How to Invest When You Have More Money

As of now, I do not think that microinvesting platforms are on par with other brokerage firms and investing platforms that require lump sums to open accounts or higher ongoing investment rates. It’s fine to start out investing with a microinvesting platform, depending on your goals, but as soon as you are able, I think you should switch to a brokerage firm that offers a wider array of investments, lower fees, and IRAs. All of the advantages of the microinvesting platforms (aside from the zero minimums) – low-cost ETF investing, asset allocation recommendations – can be found at a brokerage like Vanguard, Fidelity, or Charles Schwab. Plus, start-ups like these fin tech platforms often change their business models or fold, so even if you like your solution right now it might not be around forever.

When you do make that switch, be sure to choose a diversified, passive, low-cost strategy appropriate to your goals. And increase your savings rate!

If I were in a position to invest only five dollars per month, among the microinvesting platforms I looked at I would sign up for WiseBanyan. Because it doesn’t charge a platform fee on top of the ETF expense ratings and it offers IRAs, I think it gives you the best chance at actually readying you to invest for the long-term. But you also have to consider that it uses a freemium model, which has not yet been proven sustainable in the financial sector.