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Can a PhD Achieve FIRE?

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Would you like for paid work to become optional for the rest of your life? What would you do with your time if you didn’t have to work? When you become “financially independent,” you have enough money and passive income streams to sustain you for the rest of your life without earning any more. At that point, you have the option of retiring (whether or not you actually do). Achieving this goal in youth or middle age instead of 65 is the objective of adherents of the FIRE movement (Financial Independence / Retire Early). Typically, FIRE walkers earn high salaries and save a radically large percentage of their income. This article explores whether FIRE is a good or reasonable goal for a PhD (graduate student, postdoc, or PhD with a Real Job) to set.

Can PhD FIRE

 

Further listening: This Prof Used Geographic Arbitrage to Design Her Ideal Career and Personal Life

What Is the FIRE Movement?

The FIRE movement (or at least the current iteration of the trend) started to gain traction within the last decade. Two of the fathers of the movement who documented their FIRE journeys on popular blogs are Jacob Lund Fisker (Early Retirement Extreme) and Pete Adeney (Mr. Money Mustache). They both advocate establishing a very frugal lifestyle to 1) save a high percentage of your income while working and 2) minimize the size of the nest egg needed to retire from paid work.

Now that the FIRE movement has gained popularity, it has diversified (it’s not just for young, single, male tech workers!) and splintered. One of the useful delineations is among ‘lean FIRE,’ ‘FIRE,’ and ‘fat FIRE.’ Roughly speaking, lean FIRE adherents seek to achieve FIRE primarily through expense minimization (and a high salary as well) while fat FIRE adherents seek to achieve FIRE primarily through vastly out-earning their spending (and keeping a lid on expenses as well), with regular FIRE falling somewhere in the middle.

Why Would a PhD Want to FIRE?

A person who completes a PhD has passion for her work (as well as incredible perseverance). I find it hard to imagine that such a person would want to retire early from her chosen field – especially those pursuing a life of the mind in academia.

But people who complete PhDs are also people. They end up in all types of jobs with all levels of job satisfaction. Even those with high job satisfaction might want to escape the demands of full-time work.

Even if retiring early is not attractive, becoming financially independent may be. Once you are financially independent, even if you keep working, you don’t have to be concerned about losing your job or put up with a job that’s no longer a good fit. Even during the journey to FIRE, you will have a much, much greater degree of financial security than most Americans, which brings peace of mind.

How Do You FIRE?

While difficult and rare to achieve, the mechanism of becoming FIRE is easy to understand.

To become financially independent (from active work), you need to have investments and/or passive income streams that will pay for your expenses in perpetuity. I’ll focus this discussion on the investments needed rather than the passive income streams.

Basically, to achieve FIRE, you need a nest egg of investments that is large enough that you can withdraw what you need to live on each year without eating into the principal. The higher your living expenses, the larger the nest egg you need to support them in perpetuity.

FIRE adherents usually follow the “4% Rule,” also called the Safe Withdrawal Rate (SWR), or perhaps a more conservative 3% or 3.5% Rule. The 4% Rule means that withdrawing 4% of your portfolio balance each year gives you a very good chance of your portfolio not running out of money prior to your death; it is based on historical market returns. (Early retirees may adjust this rule to be more conservative due to their post-FIRE life expectancy being longer than a typical retirement.)

The 4% Rule shows you the two vital factors to FIRE: size of your nest egg and yearly living expenses. Therefore, to achieve FIRE you must save (invest) a lot of money and keep your living expenses in check. For example, for a household with $50,000 in yearly living expenses, a portfolio of $1,250,000 is needed.

A person pursuing LeanFIRE will primarily focus on minimizing living expenses. The rough definition of LeanFIRE is living expenses of under $40,000/year or a portfolio of $1,000,000. A person pursuing FatFIRE will primarily focus on building a large portfolio. The rough definition of FatFIRE is a portfolio of over $2,500,000 or living expenses of at least $100,000/year.

There is a delightful synergy between the necessarily high savings rate and necessarily low expenses. Given a static income, the less you spend on living expenses, the higher your savings rate can become, enabling you to achieve FIRE even faster. Mr. Money Mustache published in “The Shockingly Simple Math Behind Early Retirement” a set of ratios that illustrates the relationship between savings rate and years of saving needed until the SWR could be achieved. For example, with a savings rate of 10%, you need 51 years to save before you can retire, but that drops to 22 years with a savings rate of 40% and 8.5 years with a savings rate of 70%.

Because the key to achieving FIRE is an unusually (to say the least) high savings rate, it is almost exclusively pursued by high income earners. There is a floor on how low you can drop your living expenses (although that varies person to person), so if your income doesn’t exceed your expenses by much, achieving the “E” in FIRE becomes a remote possibility.

Can PhDs FIRE?

PhDs can FIRE if they commit to the process, but they have challenges that are not shared by their peers from college who went immediately into high-paying careers. (It has been done; Jacob Lund Fisker has a PhD and retired at age 33.)

The ideal path for someone pursuing FIRE is to obtain a high-paying job immediately upon completion of their education at 18 or 22, commit to a low-cost lifestyle, set up a radically high savings rate into investments, and keep the pedal to the metal until FIRE is achieved, for instance by age 30 or 35.

A PhD becomes derailed from this ideal path upon entering graduate school. Unless he previously set up massive passive income streams, a grad student’s income is nowhere near large enough to achieve a high savings rate (even if you live in a van like Ken Ilgunas did at Duke). This means that pursuing FIRE with a high savings rate will have to wait until landing a post-PhD Real Job.

However, the graduate school experience offers a unique advantage to FIRE: A necessarily low lifestyle. The $40,000/year maximum living expense for the definition of LeanFIRE is much higher than what virtually every graduate student takes home after paying income tax. Even a couple living the graduate student lifestyle can usually spend less than that amount.

Further reading: What Grad Students Can Learn from the FIRE Movement

A PhD also confers the possibility of a high income. While PhDs are not needed in currently high-paying careers such as finance, medicine (some specialties), computer science, and engineering, a person with a PhD does on average earn much more in a lifetime than the average person with less education, and people with PhDs can absolutely land well-paying jobs.

Therefore, a PhD maintaining her grad school lifestyle (more or less) while earning a high salary post-PhD is a recipe for FIRE, albeit starting in earnest closer to age 30 than age 20. A LeanFIRE early retirement can still be achieved within a short period, and of course she could opt for FatFIRE if her income is generous enough.

However, a graduate student (or postdoc) who commits to FIRE can go further than this default:

  1. Instead of living at 100% of net income during graduate school, save (invest) as much as possible. This will have the dual effect of further lowering living expenses and getting a head start on building your nest egg.
  2. Experiment with frugality to discover whether you want to ultimately pursue LeanFIRE, FIRE, or FatFIRE. You may decide that living below a graduate student’s means is not what you want long-term.
  3. Finish your training as quickly as possible to increase your income as early as possible. Prepare yourself to land a high-paying job through professional development and networking.

Further reading: Whether You Save During Grad School Can Have a $1,000,000 Effect on Your Retirement

What Is Your Reason to FIRE?

Ultimately, it’s vital to have clarity on why you want to pursue FIRE. It’s easy to become consumed by the numbers and the process and lose track of your motivation along the way. Sometimes it’s possible to achieve aspects of the FIRE lifestyle without actually being FIRE, and I think that’s particularly true for PhDs who have a lot of transferrable skills and potential for autonomy. Remember the parable of the fisherman and the businessman. Just like you shouldn’t put your “Real Life” on hold during graduate school, you shouldn’t put your Real Life on hold while building up to FIRE.

If you are a PhD (-in-training) and seriously pursuing FIRE, I’d love to interview you on my podcast! Please fill out this form to volunteer.

Investing Strategies to Grow Your Wealth During Your PhD Training

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The most important investment you make during graduate school or your postdoc is in your career. But alongside that primary objective, many PhDs also invest money during their training. By far the top challenge or impediment to investing during graduate school or a postdoc is the low pay, and only a fraction of trainees are financially able and ready to invest. However, investing even a small amount of money on a regular basis throughout graduate school and a postdoc can have an enormous impact on lifetime wealth. The even better news is that the process of investing itself is simpler and easier than you probably think.

investing strategies phd training

 

Many investors, both novice and experienced, fall into the trap of thinking that to maximize their investment outcomes, they should focus on choosing the best investments. In fact, there is no reliable way to pick winning investments. There are only three aspects of your investments that affect your investment outcome that you can control: your savings rate, your investment asset allocation, and the cost of your investments.

This article outlines how to grow your wealth during graduate school by optimizing those three factors and implementing a few other key strategies.

A version of this post was originally published on GradHacker.

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Choose Passive Investments

Empirical studies have borne out time after time that passive investing is a more successful strategy than active investing after costs are factored in. Basically, what that means is that buying a set of investments that is representative of a market sector overall (e.g., the entire stock market) is more successful in the long term than trying to pick winners from that same sector. In trying to beat the market, both professional investors and individual investors consistently fail to even match it.

Passive investing is a far simpler strategy than active investing and much less time-consuming to initiate and maintain because there are plenty of high-quality passive investment products available. To enact a passive investing strategy, buy an index fund or an indexed exchange traded fund (ETF). For example, there are index funds and ETFs that reflect the entire stock market or the S&P 500, among numerous others.

The great bonus here is that passive investing is far more time-efficient than active investing. You don’t have to research individual investments to death; just buy them all!

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Maximize Your Savings Rate

Instead of putting your time and energy into agonizing over your investment choices and trying to optimize them, direct it toward increasing your savings rate into your investments. You can free up more cash flow for your investments by decreasing your expenses or increasing your income.

As simple as that sounds, every grad student knows that both time and money are very tight during this phase of life. If you pursue increasing your income or decreasing your expenses, you must be very selective about how you do so. The following posts discuss both of these strategies in much more detail.

Decreasing your expenses:

Increasing your income:

Increase Your Income

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Pick an Asset Allocation and Stick with It

Your asset allocation is the percentage of your investment that is in each asset class or sub-asset class. The three main asset classes are stocks, bonds, and cash. Your asset allocation should be chosen with respect to your investing goal. For a very long-term goal, such as retirement for someone in her 20s or 30s, a very aggressive asset allocation is appropriate, such as 80-100% stocks. If you are a DIY investor, your brokerage firm can help guide you to an appropriate asset allocation.

Your asset allocation should change as the timeline on your goal grows shorter, but not quickly or dramatically. A common pitfall that investors fall into is trying to time the market by changing their asset allocation, i.e., they pull money from stocks into bonds or cash when they anticipate a stock market drop and then try to find the right time to push it back in. While the theory of selling high and buying low is fine, it’s almost impossible to successfully time the market consistently, even for professionals. Instead, maintain your appropriate asset allocation and ride the market down and up.

Minimize Investing Costs

All investments have costs associated with owning and transacting them. You can think of those costs as directly coming out of your investment returns. Over the course of several decades of investing, these costs can reduce your balance in retirement by hundreds of thousands of dollars!

In fact, costs are one of the big reasons that active investment strategies fail to perform as well as passive investment strategies. While active strategies sometimes do generate higher top-line returns than passive strategies, their higher cost almost always knocks the real return experienced by the investor below than that of passive strategies.

With mutual funds, index funds, and ETFs, the cost of owning the investment is expressed very clearly in its expense ratio (a percentage). A low-cost ETF or index fund will have an expense ratio of a couple tenths of one percent or lower, while a high-cost, actively managed mutual fund will have an expense ratio of one percent or higher. For a passive strategy, look for funds with very low expense ratios.

Watch out as well for fees tacked on top of the expense ratio of the fund you purchased itself; these are often charged by the person or institution managing the account, such as a 401(k) administrator, a financial advisor, or a roboadvisor. Make sure that you have a compelling reason for paying such a fee before signing up for one, because it will come directly out of your returns.

Dollar Cost Average

The strategy of dollar cost averaging (as opposed to irregular lump sum investing) is to invest a set amount of money on a regular basis. If you receive a regular stipend/salary, this translates to investing the same amount of money every pay period, ideally through an automated transfer.

One of the big advantages of dollar cost averaging is that committing to the strategy prevents you from attempting to time the market. When you use your discretion over the timing of your investment schedule, many of us will try to guess whether the market is on an upswing or downswing and shift our buying behavior accordingly. This is rarely a successful strategy, whether it is done haphazardly or very deliberately.

In fact, dollar cost averaging actually guarantees that you “buy low and sell high” in a sense, although you are not selling. Because you invest the same dollar amount every period, when the market is low you buy more shares and when it is high you buy fewer shares.

Use a Roth IRA

If your investing goal is to save for retirement – likely the first investing goal you should set as it is the longest-term – it is a great idea to use a tax-advantaged retirement account. A tax-advantaged retirement account protects your investments from taxes over the decades between your contribution and withdrawal in retirement; paying tax year after year would otherwise eat away at your returns. Therefore, using a tax-advantaged retirement account maximizes your returns, as long as you abide by the restrictions on access that it imposes.

Only very rarely do graduate students have access to a tax-advantaged retirement account through their universities; therefore, an individual retirement arrangement (IRA) is their only option if they are eligible. Some postdocs receive retirement account benefits through their universities and some do not. IRAs are set up independently and managed entirely by the investor. This may sound like a big responsibility, but this freedom of choice means you can pick the optimal investments for you.

IRAs come in two varieties: traditional and Roth. Roth IRAs are generally recommended for current lower-earners with great income growth potential, so they are an excellent fit for graduate students and some postdocs!

Details on Emily's Roth IRA

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Get Started ASAP

Probably the biggest investing mistake you can make is to procrastinate getting started. On average, the stock market ends two out of every three years higher than it started; if you’re ready to start investing but put it off, more times than not you miss out on earnings that could have gone into your coffer. I frequently speak with PhDs-in-training who stay stuck in investing analysis paralysis for years on end. You can always course correct if you realize you made a poor choice with your investments initially, but you can never recover lost time. So even if you aren’t confident you’re making the perfect investment, just get started!

My Experience with Investing During Graduate School

Investing is one of my favorite subjects on which to teach, write, and coach, and my enthusiasm for the subject is due to the thrilling experience I had with investing during my seven years of PhD training. Starting at $0 in 2007, my husband (also a grad student over the same period) and I together grew our retirement investment portfolio to approximately $75,000 by the time we defended in 2014. The success we experienced is largely attributable to our aggressive and increasing savings rate and the long bull market that started in 2009.

I had an inauspicious start with investing when I first opened and funded my Roth IRA. I didn’t actually purchase the investment I intended to when I opened my account, so my money was going into cash! The really embarrassing part of the story is that I didn’t catch my mistake for over a year. When I finally did, I moved my IRA from that first brokerage firm to one I preferred and made sure that all my money went into my investment of choice, a target date retirement fund.

Deciding that a target date retirement fund was right for me only took a couple hours of research, and as it’s a set-it-and-forget-it strategy I have spent zero time over the last decade-ish maintaining it (though I do regularly check the balance). Instead of spending my time and energy monkeying with my choice of investments, I used them to find ways to add more money to my investments.

When I first started contributing to my Roth IRA in 2007, I saved 10% of my gross income, which was $200/month. After we married and combined finances, my husband and I set a lofty goal to max out two Roth IRAs each year. We used frugal strategies to incrementally reduce our spending to free up more money for investing. (Our top five frugal strategies alone helped us reduce our yearly spending by approximately $6,000.) While we didn’t quite achieve our goal during grad school, we did end with a 17.5% retirement savings rate.

Investing is about far more than just numbers to me. Investing throughout graduate school has not only given my family financial security, but it enabled both my husband and I to pursue our post-PhD dream jobs, even though they are risky and less remunerative in the short term.

I want other early-career PhDs to experience a similar degree of financial freedom as soon as possible in their lives, which is why I am such a proponent of investing even during the incredibly financially challenging graduate and postdoc training periods. If you’d like to go even deeper into this subject matter, sign up for my free 7-day email course on investing for early-career PhDs.

Should a Graduate Student Save for Retirement in a Roth IRA?

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For graduate students with sufficient stipends, investing during graduate school is a fantastic financial goal. Counterintuitively, the long-term goal of funding retirement should be the first or one of the first investing goals any individual has. An Individual Retirement Arrangement (IRA) may be an appropriate vehicle in which to invest during graduate school, when the vast majority of graduate students do not have access to a retirement account at their universities such as a 403(b) or 457. But not all graduate students are eligible to contribute to an IRA, and an IRA is only the best choice for certain investing goals. If a graduate student opens an IRA, she must choose either a Roth or a traditional version.

grad student Roth IRA

A version of this article originally appeared on GradHacker.

What is an IRA?

An IRA protects your investments from being taxed while they are growing. An IRA is not synonymous with certain investments, but rather is an envelope around whatever investments you have chosen. As the name implies, the IRA is intended to be used for retirement savings, and by protecting your investments from taxes over the decades, your investments will grow at their fastest possible rate. Due to the power of compound interest, not having to pay tax on the growth of your investments can make a significant positive impact on their value. Therefore, it is a very good idea to use tax-advantaged retirement accounts to the greatest extent of your ability.

In 2018, the contribution limit for people under the age of 50 is $5,500 per year or your amount of taxable compensation, whichever is lower. You can make contributions to your 2018 IRA until April 15, 2019.

Many brokerage firms require a certain minimum account size that may be too high for a grad student just starting out with saving. If that is the case for your preferred brokerage firm, you can save into a savings account or IRA at another brokerage firm (some waive account size minimums if you set up a monthly auto-transfer) and transfer the money when you reach the minimum.

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Who can contribute to an IRA?

Only taxable compensation (previously known as earned income) can be contributed to an IRA. A graduate student’s stipend is taxable compensation if it is reported on a W-2 at tax time. If a grad student has only fellowship or training grant income during a calendar year (not reported on a W-2) and no outside income, he will not be able to contribute to an IRA for that year. Senators Elizabeth Warren and Mike Lee proposed the Graduate Student Saving Act of 2016, which would include fellowship stipends as taxable compensation for the purposes of IRA contributions, but it was not enacted.

If you are married to a person with taxable compensation, you can contribute to a spousal IRA, again subject to the limit of $5,500 or the amount of taxable compensation. There are income limits as well for IRAs, but they are much higher than grad student stipend levels.

If your stipend is not taxable compensation, you can still save for retirement, though it may not be inside an IRA.

Is a Roth or a traditional IRA better for a graduate student?

There are two versions of IRAs available: Roth and traditional. The first-pass difference between the two types of accounts is when you will pay income tax on the money inside it. While the money in your IRA grows tax-free, you do have to pay income tax either upon the contribution (Roth IRA) or withdrawal (traditional IRA).

Initially, when people decide between the Roth and traditional IRA, they compare the marginal tax rates the taxpayer will be in upon contribution vs. withdrawal. The idea is to opt to pay the tax when they are in the lower marginal tax bracket. You know your marginal tax bracket currently; for graduate students without outside income, it is usually the 15% tax bracket or lower. You do not know what your marginal tax bracket will be during your retirement, as both your income and the tax brackets themselves will change in the intervening decades. However, this educated guess applies to the majority of graduate students: You are currently in a relatively low tax bracket because you are in training and building your career. Later in your life, you expect to have a much higher income and be in a much higher tax bracket. If that assumption holds, the Roth IRA is the more appropriate choice. Virtually every graduate student I’ve spoken with about this has chosen to contribute to a Roth IRA during graduate school.

The Roth IRA has some additional flexibility that the traditional IRA does not that may be attractive for graduate students.

Details on Emily's Roth IRA

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What are the pros and cons of using a Roth IRA?

As graduate students usually lack access to other tax-advantaged retirement account options, the best practice is to only contribute money to a Roth IRA that you intend to invest for retirement. This is in line with the government’s purpose in creating IRAs. The main con of using any tax-advantaged retirement account is that accessing the funds earlier may trigger an income tax payment and a 10% penalty. However, the Roth IRA is unusually flexible.

As you have already paid income tax on the contributions to your Roth IRA, you can remove them at any time without additional tax or penalty. Five years after opening a Roth IRA, a first-time home buyer can remove up to $10,000 without incurring a penalty.

Because of the Roth IRA’s flexibility, some people use it “off-label” as a general savings vehicle. Others may make contributions even if they are not 100% sure they will preserve the money for retirement. Just be sure to match your investment strategy with your intended use for the money; the type of investments you choose for long-term money should be different than those for mid- or short-term money.

Of course, saving for retirement is not an appropriate goal for every graduate student. If you are currently taking on debt (student loans, personal loans, credit cards), your first priority should be to minimize that debt acquisition or even start to repay it. If you can keep your head above water with your stipend but don’t have any kind of cash savings for emergencies or short-term expenses, saving those funds should be your goal, not investing (yet). Even graduate students whose stipends allow for saving may not want to start investing for the long term if they have other financial priorities and their values don’t align with early wealth-building.

If you are a graduate student with a livable stipend who values financial security or independence, using a Roth IRA for your retirement savings is a wonderful choice. If you don’t have taxable compensation, you can still save for retirement in another vehicle. If you aren’t sure what financial goal you are saving for, using a Roth IRA is an option but saving in a taxable account is almost as beneficial and prevents the different purposes from becoming confused.

Did you save for retirement during graduate school? If so, did you use a Roth IRA?

Start Investing During Graduate School

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During graduate school, you’re heavily investing in yourself and your career. You’re sacrificing significant income potential to receive super-advanced training in your field. You’re probably anticipating a large income jump upon exiting grad school. Why should you even try to make your stipend income work for you? Is it possible or feasible to start investing while you’re so consumed by graduate school?

start investing

A version of this article originally appeared on GradHacker.

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The Power of Compound Interest

Einstein declared that compound interest is the most powerful force in the universe. Just kidding – that’s an oft-misattributed quote. But compound interest is amazingly powerful: When you invest money and achieve a rate of return consistently over time, your money experiences exponential growth. The growth in your account balance itself is what grows with time.

Let’s look at a toy example of the power of compound interest (in reality, you would never receive a high rate of return on a consistent basis, but rather it would fluctuate):

You make a one-time investment of $5,500 (no ongoing contribution). Below is a table of your account balance at different points in time, given different rates of return.

compound_interest_table

Now imagine how your earnings would layer and multiply as you consistently invest year after year throughout your career! Given enough time and a reasonable average rate of return, even a modest amount of yearly savings can turn into millions of dollars.

Compound interest works for you in the case of investing (if irregularly), but it works against you in the cases of inflation. The long-term average rate of inflation in the US is a little above 3%. That means that you must invest your money to get a rate of return of at least 3-4% to just maintain its purchasing power!

The principle behind the power of compound interest teaches us that the more time given to the process the better it works for you. Graduate school is a wonderful time to start investing for the long term, if you haven’t already. You won’t be able to save much money, at least not in comparison with how much you might after graduating, but the extra few years of compounding will work their magic and over the decades that small amount of money will grow into a staggering sum.

Passive Investing Is Maximally Time-Efficient

Many graduate students are intimidated by the prospect of investing. They suffer from analysis paralysis at several different steps and end up doing nothing, even if they have the capital available. My goal is to dispel the misconception that investing has to be difficult or time-consuming. Certainly if you want to make a hobby of investing you can spend a considerable amount of time on it, but that’s absolutely not required. The average graduate student can invest quite successfully while spending only a few hours to set up the investment and a few minutes over the course of a year checking up on it.

The approach to investing that is most successful and time-efficient is called passive investing. When you passively invest, you strive to get the same returns in your personal account as some sector(s) of the market. You are not looking to beat the market, but rather match it. This is in contrast to active investing, which involves picking individual investments and timing the buying and selling to try to beat the market average. When these two approaches have been compared head to head, the passive investing strategy beats out the active strategy 80% of the time. Plus, it’s simpler, easier, and cheaper.

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To passively invest, you simply choose to put your money into index funds. Index funds replicate a market sector. For instance, the S&P 500 index fund replicates large-capitalization stocks by holding the largest 500 companies traded on the US stock exchanges. Depending on your investing goals, you could buy an index fund that represents the entire US stock market or bond market – or their international counterparts – or a mix of several index funds. Then, once you have invested, you stay invested for the long term – no jumping in and out. (You can often find an Exchange Traded Fund version of your preferred index fund, which is usually offered at an even lower cost.)

Because the passive investing strategy is a buy and hold strategy, the significant time investment is up front to research and choose your index fund(s). This can be done in as little as a few minutes or as much as tens of hours, depending on how thoroughly you want to understand the investment. Once you have made your choice, you can just glance at the account balance a few times per year to make sure it’s in line with your expectations (given how the market is behaving).

How to Get Started Investing

If you are investing for retirement, your first decision is whether you can or should use a tax-advantaged retirement account, such as an individual retirement arrangement (IRA). (You must have taxable compensation to contribute to an IRA.) It’s very rare, though not totally unheard of, for graduate students to have access to a workplace-based retirement account, such as a 403(b). If you are opening an IRA, you will have to choose between a Roth and a traditional version.

Your next decision is where to open your investment account (IRA or taxable). Most DIY investors would do well to choose a brokerage firm. Vanguard, Fidelity, and Charles Schwab are all excellent, though not the only, options for low-cost index funds. With a brokerage firm, you will have a wide selection of investment options available to you (unlike at most banks). You can open and fund such an account completely online.

The next step is actually choosing your index funds, which is the one where you might spend the most time. Brokerage firms often offer similar index funds to one another, as they are all trying to replicate the same market sectors, though there may be subtle differences in the holdings or the cost. These brokerage firms usually offer tools and quizzes to help you identify the right investment for your time frame and risk tolerance.

If you don’t know where to start your research, check out target date retirement funds. They assume a risk tolerance for you based on your projected retirement year (e.g., 2055), and then invest in a small number of index funds to create an appropriate asset allocation. This type of fund handles all the necessary rebalancing among the index funds, so it is a totally hands-off investing strategy. For this reason, it is great for a graduate student who wants a set-it-and-forget-it investment strategy.

The biggest barrier to investing for a graduate student should be freeing up the money to put toward it rather than intimidation or analysis paralysis. Passive investing is totally compatible with the existing demands on a graduate student’s time and energy. For ideas on how to reduce your expenses and increase your income so that you have more money available for investing, see:

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If you have already started investing, are you using a passive strategy? Have you suffered from analysis paralysis with respect to investing? How are you harnessing the power of compound interest?

How to Start Investing with Just Five Dollars per Month

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In the last several years, we’ve seen an explosion of “fintech,” aka financial technology. One of those new areas is “microinvesting;” there’s never been a better time to be a beginning investor with only a small amount of cash flow available to invest. No longer must you have thousands of dollars to open an investment account or millions of dollars to receive professional investment advice. While of course it is preferable to invest a large amount of money each month for your retirement or other investing goals, sometimes that’s simply not possible. Often it’s not possible for graduate students and postdocs, yet these groups are just as intensely interested in investing as anyone else – more so, I’d wager. This post details how to start investing with just five dollars per month (or whatever amount of money you can spare right now).

invest just five dollars per month

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Why It’s Beneficial to Invest Just Five Dollars per Month

Thanks to the power of compound interest, a small amount of money given a long amount of time can turn into a large amount of money. That means that any amount of money you can put away when you are younger is going to make a significant difference to your wealth in retirement. It’s much, much, much better to invest $5/month than $0/month when you have decades to let it grow.

Now, you’re not going to fund your entire retirement with just a few dollars per month. But starting small is perfectly acceptable when your income is suppressed during your PhD training or you are otherwise in a financially challenging circumstance. Get started now with whatever amount you can, and increase your savings rate when your income increases and/or expenses decrease.

For example, if you contributed $5/month to an investment account over 5 years and received an 8% average annual rate of return, you’d end that time period with $367. Leave that $367 invested with an 8% rate of return for 50 years, and your ending balance is just shy of $20,000. I won’t sugar-coat it: That amount of money isn’t going to get you too far in your old age. But it is $20k better than taking no action.

Further reading:

In addition to the money itself, I see two compelling reasons to start investing even with only five dollars per month:

1) Committing to an investment plan creates a habit and changes your self-identity. If you invest five dollars per month, you become an “investor.” It’s part of who you are. The positive financial habit of committing to a monthly savings rate is a very powerful one to cultivate early on in life.

2) Once you get started, it’s easy to increase. The biggest hurdle is going from investing $0/month to $5/month, not from $5/month to $100/month. If you self-identify as an investor, you are naturally going to look for ways to increase your rate of investment. When you complete your training and move into a better-paid position, you will be ready and raring to save more each month, and you’ll already have the infrastructure in place. You’ll only be a few clicks away from investing serious money each month instead of having to wrestle with all the decisions and setting everything up at the same time that you’re dealing with a job transition.

Why It’s Challenging to Invest Just Five Dollars per Month

Until a few years ago, the only way to invest a small amount of money each month and be well-diversified was to use a mutual fund. Unfortunately, to open a brokerage account in which you could buy mutual funds usually took at least $1,000 if not several thousand dollars. Even the brokerage firms that waived their minimum balances usually required an ongoing investment commitment on the order of $50 or $100/month. That barrier can seem prohibitively high to some people; instead of saving up cash for months or years to meet the minimum balance, I imagine many people gave up on the idea of investing.

Further reading: Brokerage and IRA Account Minimums

Now, however, several investing platforms use fractional ETF shares to solve this issue. The platform buys whole shares of ETFs but sells fractions to its users. In this way, a user can purchase one or more ETFs in whatever increments she likes, and there is often no minimum balance required to open the account.

(I have only included in my list below microinvesting platforms that use ETFs. Robinhood is another investing platform that I ran across many times while researching this article because it is a fee-free platform. However, it is designed for investing in individual stocks. You have to invest a lot of money to create a diversified stock portfolio through buying individual stocks. You can buy ETFs through Robinhood but not fractional shares, so that is not compatible with investing just $5 per month. I’ve decided to exclude Robinhood from my list below because it inherently encourages active investing. Of course, if that’s your preferred investing strategy and/or you have a larger amount of money to invest, Robinhood is well worth considering.)

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The Best Platforms For Investing Just Five Dollars per Month

I reviewed a number of fintech microinvesting platforms for this article, though I do not claim that it is comprehensive. I am not a customer/don’t have a relationship with any of these platforms, so I’ve drawn this information from the company websites and reviews rather than personal experience or communications.

Acorns

Acorns is probably the best-known microinvesting platform. Its concept is to round up each of your purchases to the next whole dollar and invest the change. You can also set up a recurring investment.

Fee structure: $1/month for under $5,000 (free for students for 4 years) + ETF expense ratios
IRA option: Coming “early 2018”
Portfolio creation: Suggests a portfolio of ETFs after receiving user input

WiseBanyan

WiseBanyan calls itself the “first free financial advisor.” (They earn money through upselling products and services to their clients.) The service asks you a few questions and uses Modern Portfolio Theory to construct a passive portfolio appropriate for you.

Fee structure: Only the expense ratios of the underlying funds
IRA option: Yes
Portfolio creation: Uses low-fee index ETFs according to Modern Portfolio Theory after you input data for its investor profile

Stash

Stash allows the user to choose among low-cost ETFs to create her own portfolio. The expense ratios on the ETFs are low, and Stash can recommend certain “themed” combinations of ETFs.

Fee structure: $1/month + ETF expense ratios
IRA option: In beta ($2/mo)
Portfolio creation: The user creates his own portfolio from among 40 pre-selected ETFs

Clink

Clink bills itself as more a savings app than an investing app. There is no minimum investment, but if you want to use the scheduler the minimum is $1/day. Clink invests your money in Vanguard ETFs according to Modern Portfolio Theory (a passive strategy).

Fee structure: $1/mo when balance is under $5,000 + ETF expense ratios
IRA option: No
Portfolio creation: Combines your risk tolerance with Modern Portfolio Theory to create an asset allocation of six Vanguard ETFs

In addition to these companies that are explicitly designed for microinvesting, you could also consider other brokerage firms that have wider array of financial services that includes microinvesting. For example, Betterment is a roboadvisor and has no account size minimums. If you do have a lump sum available to invest, though only $5 per month on an ongoing basis to contribute, you could consider other traditional low-cost brokerage firms like Vanguard, Fidelity, or Charles Schwab (and look around for one that will waive its minimum).

What Are the Downsides to Using a Microinvesting Platform?

The microinvesting platforms I listed above are providing a great service to a previously underserved population, and they are to be commended for that. But in order to make it possible, they have engaged in several trade-offs that wouldn’t be necessary with larger investment balances.

1) The Investment Choices Are Severely Limited

The platforms diversify your money into ETFs, but they offer only a small number of ETFs, and I suspect only a few ultimate combinations of those ETFs depending on the user’s input. This is not necessarily a bad thing. If you simply want a generally appropriate asset allocation and are not too concerned with the exact underlying funds used or the exact percentages, having those limited choices might even be advantageous. But if you want to design your own asset allocation or choose among the other thousands of funds possible, you probably won’t be too happy with these platforms.

2) The Fees Are Sky-High

There are two types of fees typically associated with owning investments. The first is due to the cost owning and transacting the investments themselves. When we are talking about an ETF, this fee is called the expense ratio and is expressed as a percentage of your investment balance. Each of the four platforms above have this fee, and it is typically quite low, approximately 0.1%. If you ever see an expense ratio that is around 1%, this is considered high and a red flag that the fund is actively managed.

The second type of fee is for administering the plan or platform itself. For reference, a full-service fee-only human financial advisor charges approximately 1%.

Three of the microinvesting platforms in my list above charge at least a $1 per month fee of the second kind. That doesn’t sound like a lot of money in absolute terms, but the whole reason we’re talking about microinvesting is because small amounts of money are worth paying attention to. If you are investing just five dollars per month, a one dollar per month fee is a staggering 20% of your savings rate. This kind of fee absolutely cripples your investing efforts. I would not be at all surprised if you lost money overall almost every year if you were investing just five dollars per month because the long-term average annual return of the stock market is approximately 10%.

Of course, you can mitigate this problem by using WiseBanyan or another platform that doesn’t charge a fee (e.g., if you are a student and can have the fee waived) or by investing more money each month.

3) They May Not Offer an IRA

Only one of the above platforms currently offers an IRA investing option to all its users. While it is great to invest outside of an IRA, if you are saving for retirement using an IRA is optimal. Plus, your IRA contribution room disappears every year. If you use a microinvesting platform for a few years as a means to save enough to open an IRA with a larger lump sum, keep in mind that your contribution room disappears with each year. It would be better to contribute to an IRA all along instead of doing it in one lump sum at the end because it would use up so much of your contribution room in the last year.

Further reading:

4) You May Develop a Sense of Complacency

I’m trying to thread a needle here: I want to encourage you to invest any small amount of money you can right now while emphasizing that to reach financial independence or retire someday $5 per month is not nearly a high enough investing rate long-term.

If investing just five dollars per month is truly all you can do right now, go for it. But do not allow yourself to think you can keep your savings rate that low when your financial circumstances change. I want you to jump that rate up by about two orders of magnitude as soon as you are able!

Doing something is better than doing nothing, but over time you must move from doing something to doing the best thing or the sufficient thing.

Further listening: Ask Dave: Micro-Investing Apps?

How to Invest When You Have More Money

As of now, I do not think that microinvesting platforms are on par with other brokerage firms and investing platforms that require lump sums to open accounts or higher ongoing investment rates. It’s fine to start out investing with a microinvesting platform, depending on your goals, but as soon as you are able, I think you should switch to a brokerage firm that offers a wider array of investments, lower fees, and IRAs. All of the advantages of the microinvesting platforms (aside from the zero minimums) – low-cost ETF investing, asset allocation recommendations – can be found at a brokerage like Vanguard, Fidelity, or Charles Schwab. Plus, start-ups like these fin tech platforms often change their business models or fold, so even if you like your solution right now it might not be around forever.

When you do make that switch, be sure to choose a diversified, passive, low-cost strategy appropriate to your goals. And increase your savings rate!

If I were in a position to invest only five dollars per month, among the microinvesting platforms I looked at I would sign up for WiseBanyan. Because it doesn’t charge a platform fee on top of the ETF expense ratings and it offers IRAs, I think it gives you the best chance at actually readying you to invest for the long-term. But you also have to consider that it uses a freemium model, which has not yet been proven sustainable in the financial sector.

Whether You Save During Grad School Can Have a $1,000,000 Effect on Your Retirement

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Today I’m sharing with you a graph that I show during “The Graduate Student and Postdoc’s Guide to Personal Finance.” It’s always shocking to the audience. It motivates some people to save during grad school and some people think it’s unreasonable; I’ll break all of that down here.

save during grad school

The point of this graph is to illustrate the power of compound interest, which roughly translates to investment returns. (More on that ‘roughly’ later!) I used Illuminations to create the graph.

Here’s the toy example:

Alana receives a $30,000 per year stipend and she saves 10% of it consistently into an IRA that is invested for her retirement (i.e., rather aggressively). So she is saving $250/month every month throughout her five years in graduate school. Her investments generate an average annual rate of return of 8%.

Over those five years, Alana puts in $15,000 and her ending balance is $18,369.21. So that’s cool and all – an extra $3k.

But then, she keeps the money invested for the same average rate of return for the next fifty years. So if she graduates when she’s 30, she checks her balance again at age 80. Remember, she’s not making additional contributions to this money at all – it’s just what she saved during grad school.

Alana’s investment balance has grown to a breath-taking $989,688.35! Her diligence to save during grad school translates to an extra $1M in retirement!!

I really want you to let that exercise sink in. That is the power of compound interest. Even a modest amount of money, given enough time and a high enough rate of return, can turn into an enormous amount of money! That is why any small amount of money that you can invest during grad school will have a huge impact on your long-term financial wellbeing.

I hope you had a “wow” moment there and are motivated to start investing or increase your investing (or pay off debt). I’m going to break down the exercise now to address the common questions and objections that I hear.

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1) It’s unreasonable for a grad student to save $250/month.

Whether or not saving $250/month is possible or reasonable is highly individual and depends both on the grad student’s income (usually a stipend rate set by the university/department) and personal living expenses. $250 is absolutely possible for many grad students (by the end of our PhDs – after lots of optimization – my husband and I were saving about $800/month together), and it’s not for others. Sometimes stipends are just too low, the local cost of living is just too high, or you have a challenging situation like paying off a lot of debt or supporting family members.

I do think 10% or $250/month are good benchmarks for grad students who have the ability to save. If they’re not saving that much yet, this illustration should encourage them to find a way to save more. If they’re already at that level, they can feel good about their efforts and maybe push for more as well.

The point of the exercise is not to say you have to save $250/month or it’s all useless. It’s to illustrate that saving early – whether it’s $250/month or $25/month, whether it’s every month or in one lump sum – has an incredible impact on your wealth over the long term. So any amount you can invest during grad school is wonderful. At just $25/month, that ending balance is nearly $100,000 – an amazing amount of money as well!

2) A guaranteed 8% rate of return isn’t available.

The objection to the 8% average rate of return figure is two-fold: 1) Why 8%? 2) You can’t get a high fixed rate of return in today’s market.

The reason investment returns are illustrated using compound interest is to make the math easier and keep the point clear. If you looked at models that include how the stock market really behaves, they get complicated and difficult to parse. You don’t end up with a nice single value but rather a distribution of possible results. There is a chance (minuscule over long periods of time, but non-zero) that you could lose all your money. There is an equally small chance that you end up a billionaire. And everything in between. But somewhere in the big fat middle of that distribution is the answer that a clean compound interest calculation gets you to.

The point of the exercise is not to predict exactly how much money you’re going to end up with in retirement down to the cent. It’s to show you the scale of change that’s possible over a long period of time with a reasonably high rate of return and motivate you to harness the power of compound interest.

If you look at enough of these types of compound interest examples, you’ll see a few different interest rates chosen. When we’re talking about stock investments, 8% is on the modest side. The long-term average return for the total stock market is often pegged at 10%, so that’s a popular figure. Dave Ramsey likes to use 12%. I chose 8% because it’s reflective of a largely-but-not-completely stock investment portfolio, which is appropriate for aggressive long-term investing (not speculating). It’s also pretty unlikely that you would have a single expected average rate of return over 50 years, as the standard advice is to move toward more conservative investments as retirement draws nearer, but the illustration ignores that detail as well. If the stock market future more or less resembles its past, 8% is a very achievable long-term average rate.

To really blow your mind, the same example above with a 12% rate of return gives an ending balance of $7,192,995.42. So this rate of return choice really matters to the illustration, and even the breath-taking ending balance I got to is a conservative example of the power of compound interest.

3) I don’t want to wait 50 years to retire.

I actually have never heard this objection from an audience member, but it’s one I have in my own mind. When I break the news that we’re looking at a 50-year compounding period, I say “So if you get out of grad school when you’re 30, you’re now 80. But don’t worry because by then 80 will be the new 50.” There’s some truth to that; people are living longer, and Ray Kurzweil thinks that by 2029 it may be possible to live forever.

There’s no special reason to use 50 years in this example, except that it’s a round number that when added to a grad student’s age puts them past the current retirement age but probably still kicking. The point is that the more years you give compound interest to work, the more impressive the outcome. It really does matter whether you start saving during grad school or after! If you’re shooting for a specific number that represents financial independence, starting earlier gets you there earlier.

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4) You’re not accounting for inflation.

Good catch! $1M in today’s money is very different from $1M in 2067 money. It won’t seem nearly so impressive at that point. But that should not stop you from saving. If anything, the existence of long-term inflation (in the US, a bit higher than 3% annually on average) argues for more saving and more aggressive investing. You are losing purchasing power if you keep it in cash and barely maintaining it using bonds.

5) Can’t I achieve the same result by maxing out my 401(k) in my first year with a real job?

I fielded this question only once, and it was during my very first seminar ever. And it’s a great one. My argument is that you come out of grad school with $18k in savings and continue to invest that for 50 years. Currently, the maximum someone under the age of 50 can contribute to a 401(k) is $18,000 per year. The point is correct: If you just max out your 401(k) in your first year with a real job and keep it invested for 50 years, you get the same outcome as you would by saving that $250/month all through grad school. The compound interest math is identical.

But guess what’s even better? Saving $250/month during grad school and maxing out your 401(k) in your first year with a real job – and every year after. And who is more likely to max out their 401(k) (no mean feat!): someone who has never saved a dime or someone who is already in the habit of saving, even in a challenging time of life like grad school?

Becoming a mega-saver with your first real job is a great step. But it doesn’t erase the opportunity you have to start investing during grad school. You can have your $1M in retirement from that first year’s 401(k) and your $1M from grad school.